Night can symbolise magic, madness, mystery, and death. It is also a symbol of the unconscious and a powerful source of imagination.

Photographers have long been aware of the aesthetic properties of photographing at night. Alfred Stieglitz and Brassai were among the early masters to exemplify night photography. Brassai famously documented the results in his 1932 book ‘Paris de Nuit’.

We’ve listed 30 night photographers working today who capture unique aspects of the night. Believe us; they are worth checking out!

What is Night Photography?

In brief, night photography is taking photographs between the dark hours of dusk and dawn.

The power of night bestows many types of photography with hints of mischief, magic, and possibility…

A serene landscape transforms into a magical underworld by moonlight. City streets can take on an uncanny or cinematic quality.

Genres like astrophotography need the presence of nightfall to exist.

Night photographers seek to capture the essence of our world at a time when the majority of people don’t see it.

Whether the night is the subject matter, backdrop, or frame, there is something magical afoot in most night photography forms.

Influential Night Photographers to Follow

Let’s take a look at the work of these fantastic night photographers that have inspired us recently.

Each of these artists uses the qualities of the night to add something special to their photos.

Ekaterina Mishchenkova

Not every night is dark and silent.

Pattern and colour are a staple of Ekaterina Mishchenkova’s work. Her architectural photos, portraits and night photos are bursting with colour.

Her images of fireworks displays from cities worldwide celebrate the night as a canvas for explosions of joy.

Ekaterina is a prize-winner of the Me & My Leica X Photo Contest and the International Photography Awards (IPA).

 

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Paul Zizka

Paul Zizka is an explorer and professional astrophotographer.

He creates compelling images of the night skies from incredible locations such as Antarctica, Iceland, New Zealand, Greenland and the Canadian Rockies.

The textures and contrast of his clean landscape images are enhanced by the darkness of night.

Paul offers a range of online courses and workshops for photographers interested in perfecting their skills!

 

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A post shared by Paul Zizka • Banff, AB (@paulzizkaphoto)

Liam Wong

Liam Wong is a Scottish photographer and game designer.

His neon-lit street photography brings us into a futuristic night world.

Liam’s work in film and video games is evident in his photography style. These cyberpunk cityscapes transport us to the set of Blade Runner or lost in Gotham city.

There is a hint of impending action in each of the photos. Something is about to emerge from these streets, but what?

 

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Zach Doehler

Zach Doehler is a Canadian landscape photographer. His early interest in photography began with a mission to capture the stars.

Zach’s passion for photographing the night sky has continued to produce a portfolio of exquisite landscape photography.

A unique editing style emphasises a mystic quality in his stunning night landscapes.

His website offers photography presets, in-depth tutorials, and even one-on-one training!

 

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Henri Prestes

Henri Prestes is a Portuguese fine art photographer with a passion for the night.

His photography reminds us of an impressionist painting with a touch of a soft nightmare.

His subjects are lost in their dreams, usually walking alone in foggy moors, fields or city streets.

His current series is called Perfect Darkness, which was also the title of his 2018 solo exhibition in London.

 

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A post shared by Henri Prestes (@henrifilm)

Billy Dinh

Brooklyn based photographer Billy Dinh creates cinematic visions by photographing at night.

His unique perspectives and framing give a unique appeal to his candid night portraits.

Billy’s New York City street photos could easily be stills from a vintage movie. It is unclear if we are the audience of this night movie or have become characters ourselves.

 

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A post shared by ʙ ɪ ʟ ʟ ʏ ᴅ ɪ ɴ ʜ (@billydeee)

Mike Will

Mike Will is a London based street photographer. His images exemplify how the city comes alive at night.

His unique perspective, interesting angles, and use of light trails give us a sense of moving through this vibrant city at night.

Mike’s editing style enhances the energetic portrayal of architecture, traffic lights and public transport.

Mike is a Sony European Imaging Ambassador and the founder of the Shooter community.

 

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A post shared by 🌍 Mike Will | London (@m.visuals)

Tobias Baumgaertner

Tobias Baumgaertner is a conservation photographer with a diverse portfolio.

He shoots in stunning location across the globe. Many of his stunning images show us the night world of wildlife and nature.

His stunning nightscapes of the Australian landscape are breathtaking.

In his wildlife portraits, we access special moments of wild creatures, often at nighttime.

 

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A post shared by Tobias Baumgaertner (@tobiasvisuals)

Emmanuel Coveney

Emmanuel Coveney is a fine art night photographer from Québec.

His stunning cityscapes highlight architecture and people often under the curtain of night.

There is a hint of magic in Emmanuel’s images. His gothic subject matter and style remind us how powerful and romantic city streets become at nighttime.

 

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A post shared by Emmanuel Coveney (@manucoveney)

Eyesboyzinsta (Kyle)

Kyle is a graphic artist and a master of photo manipulation.

This talented visual artist often uses Picsart and Photoshop to merge portraits and night scenes. The results are moody dream-like portraits.

Whatever his subjects are thinking about, they are completely entangled in night visions.

 

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A post shared by eyesboyzinsta | KYLE (@eyesboyzinsta)

George Natsioulis

George Natsipoulis is a Greek photographer with a unique vision of night street photography.

His portfolio features atmospheric night scenes, where it’s always foggy and mysterious.

Georges photos often feature lone figures on their journey into the night. His commercial photography also includes beautiful night wedding portraits.

 

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A post shared by George Natsioulis (@george_natsioulis)

Matthew Vandeputte

Matthew Vandeputte is a talented timelapse photographer based in London.

His portfolio features shots of the night sky, which are simply out of this world!

Matthew has a great blog on his website that gives helpful tutorials for fellow creators.

His beautiful night sky photography is exemplified in a recent time-lapse, ‘The Cloud Palace’. Check it out yourself in the link below!

 

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A post shared by Matthew Vandeputte (@matjoez)

Rachel Jones Ross

Based in the beautiful Canadian Rockies, Rachels Jones Ross captures breathtaking night landscapes.

Her portfolio is full of beautifully captured images of star-filled skies, the Northern lights and the Milky Way.

Rachel offers a range of workshops and tutorials, including an online night photographers course that you can do in your pyjamas!

 

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A post shared by Rachel ✨Astro 🇨🇦 Banff, AB (@rachel_jones_ross)

Manfred Teh

Manny is a photographer and video creator with a unique take on night photography.

He uses unique angles, perspectives, and creative editing to portray shadowy images of forests and foggy streets at night.

His night photography highlights the uncanny feeling of how familiar places transform into the unknown after dark: places where we cannot be totally sure if we feel safe or not.

 

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A post shared by MANNY | Content Creator (@manfredteh)

Jeryl

Jeryl’s vast cityscapes are often shot at dusk or night.

He uses architectural elements to frame his breathtaking images of the streets at night.

Jeryl incorporates light trails, fireworks and other elements to highlight movement and colour in the city after dark.

 

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A post shared by Jeryl 🇸🇬 (@smilewithjeryl)

Danny Sanculi

Danny Sanculi is a Californian neuroscientist with incredible photography skills. His Instagram handle is thelightninja, and it is not difficult to see why!

Daniel has an extraordinary way of capturing night scenes adorned with light trails, shooting stars, and other beautiful bursts of light.

Looking through his images, we are not always sure if it’s our planet or some fantastic vision of a faraway world.

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A post shared by Danny Sanculi (@thelightninja)

Dirk Fleischman (Niphisi)

Dirk Fleischman (Niphisi) is a German photographer who captures breathtaking shots with his iPhone.

His portfolio is full of beautiful minimalist scenes, mostly in tones of black and white.

The lonely subjects often provide a moment of colour to a space that seems to exist in a world of infinite night.

 

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A post shared by Dirk – Iphone / Lumix G70 -GER (@niphisi)

Daniel Laan

Daniel Laan’s mystical landscape photography portfolio is expansive.

Many of his stunning seascapes and ghostly mountainous landscapes are shot at nighttime.

His introduction to his Nightscapes and Aurora gallery gives us an insight into his vision: The magical qualities of the night are unparalleled. As soon as the veil of sunlight fades, the night brings us a unique perspective of our place among the stars.

 

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A post shared by Daniel Laan – Landscape Photos (@laanscape)

Anat Seem

Magic is Everywhere states Anat Seem’s Instagram profile. This is certainly evident in her impressive portfolio of magical night imagery.

In her photos, we observe carefree children’s silhouettes at play against a background of stunning star-filled skies.

Anat’s images invite us into an innocent night world inhabited by fairies and magic.

 

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A post shared by Anat (@anatseem)

Filipe Pinhas

Filipe Pinhas night street photos are brimming with a shadowy atmosphere.

He captures quiet urban portraits of solitary night workers or travellers, often surrounded by fog or mist.

His subjects are usually shot from a distance, about to board the last train home, or on their singular destination through quiet streets at night.

 

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A post shared by Filipe Pinhas (@filipepinhas)

Brad Hannon

Brad Hannon has an impressive portfolio of stormy sky photography, often shot at night.

The self-described Storm Chaser shows us the dramatic beauty of the night sky at its most volatile.

His dramatic cloudscapes, tornadoes and lighting photography allow us to revel in the awesomeness of nature (from a safe distance!).

 

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A post shared by Brad Hannon (@bradhannon)

Oliver Wallner

Oliver Wallner’s images are often the result of his photo walks in various cities by night.

His long exposure night photos often focus on means of transport and movement. The bokeh lights of street lamps and traffic at night add an extra thrill.

Oliver is also a sort of night hunter. Objects and toys he finds during his night walk often become subjects of his night portraits.

 

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A post shared by __O l i v e R__W a l l n e R__ (@o.w.photography)

Sahil Sharda

The night is a frequent backdrop to Sahil Sharda stunning street and architecture photography.

His work shows the night as an urban playground for creative visionaries.

Sahil is also the founder of Infinite Movements, a Toronto based commercial photography and video team. Their portfolio is another treasure trove of city photography at night.

 

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A post shared by Toronto (@infinitemovements)

Juan Flores

Juan Flores is a landscape photographer based in Indianapolis.

His work highlights the serenity of nature, quite often shot on a calm and still night.

In his night photography, the still waters of lakes or a lonely barn are silent beneath a majestic star-filled sky. In others, the moon takes centre stage as the subject of his beautiful work.

 

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A post shared by Juan Flores (@johnny.flowers)

Spencer Welling

Spencer Welling describes himself as a nyctophile, from an Ancient Greek word meaning a lover of the night. Looking through his incredible night landscapes, it is not difficult to see why!

Spencer is a talented astrophotographer. This is evident from his lunar shots and desert landscapes beneath magnificent views of the Milky Way.

His editing style adds some extra magic to his magnificent night photography.

 

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A post shared by Spencer Welling (@spencerwelling)

Ana Julia Gobbi

Ana Julia Gobbi is a talented night photographer based in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

She shoots in urban areas in the darkest hours of the night.

In her portfolio, we see many shots of high rise apartments with a solitary light on the inside.

This light could be a tribute to those, like Ana, who celebrate the night and create art when most of the world is sleeping.

 

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A post shared by Ana Julia Gobbi (@anajugob)

Indigo

Indigos Instagram page is awash with images that conjure up magic possibilities of the night.

Her psychedelic visions give us access to a night world where dreams have become a reality.

Indigos beautiful images often depict people who are literally bathing in the magical realm of night.

 

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A post shared by I N D I G O © (@indg0)

Siroj Ho’janazarov

This talented visual artist describes himself as ‘creating dreams’. This is certainly what comes to mind when looking at Siroj’s visionary images.

His subjects are often in the middle of an epic journey, in a faraway land resembling our own.

We get to see just a snapshot of the hero’s narrative, usually shot under a splendid star-filled sky, night cloudscape or dramatic supermoon.

 

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A post shared by Siroj Ho’janazarov (@art_siroj)

Tom Baumgaertel

Tom, a street photographer from Los Angeles, focuses on light and colour.

His night photos show us shadowy silhouetted street scenes, set alight with smears of acid green or pink light.

We are reminded of bleary-eyed walks home from late nights out, not completely in control of our vision.

 

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A post shared by STREET (@bewaremyfuji)

Conclusion

Whether you are a digital artist, astrophotographer or street photographer, we hope we inspired you with our list of night photographers.

Now it’s your turn to go out after dark and capture your night photos. Your creative visions may also be transformed by the uncertainty of the night.

Did we miss your favourite night photographer? Drop it in the comments below!

We are always on the lookout for exciting new night photographers. If you’re a night photographer, and you feel like you should be considered for this list, make sure to drop us an email at emma@expertphotography.com with your bio, website, and Instagram link!

Want stunning photos of stars with a basic DSLR and no fancy equipment? Check out our Milkyway Mastery Course to know the secrets! 

Astrophotography isn’t the easiest form of photography. It requires specialist knowledge, skills, and equipment. But with patience and application, anyone can master the art. Astrophotography lets you capture breathtaking images of deep-space objects no one can see with the naked eye.

If you want to use your camera to go on a cosmic journey, we’re here to help you get started. Our article gives you all the information you need, whether it’s camera settings or the best astro gear. Keep reading to find out more about astrophotography.

Video Course

Milky Way Mastery

Unlock the secrets of night sky photography with this video course:

• Learn to plan shots with optimal light, weather, and moon conditions.
• Discover the precise settings for stunning shots with any gear.
• Master simple editing techniques to enhance your night sky images.

What Is Astrophotography?

Astrophotography is the art of using a camera to take photos of objects in space. While Milky Way and night sky photography capture broad swathes of stars, astro focuses on specific elements within the night sky. These include planets, star clusters, and nebulae.

If you’re already familiar with Milky Way photography, that puts you in good stead when starting astrophotography. But as you may know, you can’t get deep-space images using standard camera gear. It’s best to have specialist equipment to capture detailed images from within the cosmos.

There are also different tricks and techniques for photographing different space objects. But don’t worry if you’re starting to feel overwhelmed. We have a wide range of tutorials focusing on everything from star to solar photography. 

We start with an astrophotography glossary and then explore the detailed process of capturing astro images. Remember to click the link in each section to learn more about that topic. You can use these jump links to go to the section you need:

1. Astrophotography terms
2. How to shoot astrophotography
3. Choosing a camera for astrophotography
4. Astrophotography lenses and filters
5. Telescopes and star trackers
6. Astrophotography apps and software
7. How to edit astrophotography

Astrophotography Terms

Astrophotography has its own unique set of terms that can be confusing for beginners. Understanding these terms is important for improving your skills and achieving results.

One key term is “aperture,” which determines how much light your telescope can collect. Another is “apparent magnitude,” which refers to the brightness of a celestial body. Calibration frames like bias, dark, and flat frames remove noise and correct uneven illumination in your images.

Other terms include “equatorial mounts,” which compensate for the apparent motion of stars. And there are “light pollution reduction filters,” which reduce the effect of artificial lights.

Learning these astrophotography terms helps you better understand the techniques and equipment used.

How to Shoot Astrophotography

Night sky photography is a beautiful field that involves turning your camera towards the stars. It’s not easy, but you can capture stunning night sky images with the right equipment and techniques.

You need a DSLR or mirrorless camera that can shoot in RAW format to get started. A wide aperture (f/2.8 to f/5.6) is also important for capturing as much light as possible. Other must-have accessories include a sturdy tripod, remote shutter, and a headlamp with a red light.

When shooting the night sky, you’ll want to focus manually and use a high ISO to capture as much detail as possible. An equatorial mount can help you take longer exposures without getting star trails.

With practice and patience, you can take breathtaking images of the Milky Way, constellations, and even galaxies. To learn more about night sky photography, check out our in-depth guide.

Composition

Composition is key to taking powerful pictures in any genre, and astrophotography is no different. When shooting deep-sky objects, it’s best to experiment with different compositions. Try things out and find what works best for your style of astronomy and Milky Way Photography.

Place interesting foreground elements like trees or mountains in your frame to add depth. Using leading lines like roads or rivers draws the viewer’s eye into the scene.

The rule of thirds is a classic composition technique that works well for astrophotography. You position key elements like the horizon or Milky Way along the grid lines.

Include human elements, like a tent or person gazing at the stars, to provide a sense of scale. Silhouettes make striking subjects against a starry sky.

Reflections in lakes or ponds can double the impact of your astro images. The night sky mirrored in calm water creates a stunning symmetrical composition.

To learn more about astrophotography composition, check out our detailed guide. It contains examples and techniques to enhance your night sky photos.

500 Rule

The 500 rule is a simple way to avoid star trails in astrophotography. It lets you calculate the longest exposure time before stars start to blur.

To use the 500 rule, divide 500 by your lens focal length multiplied by your camera’s crop factor. The result is the longest exposure time in seconds before stars begin to trail. For example, with a 50mm lens on a full-frame camera, the longest shutter speed would be 10 seconds (500 ÷ 50).

You can improve your astrophotography even more by taking multiple exposures at the shutter speed given by the 500 rule. Then, you can stack them together in post-processing software. This process boosts detail and enriches the night sky.

Learn more about the 500 rule for astrophotography in our in-depth guide that covers the technique in detail.

Star Photography

Star photography captures the beauty of the night sky. To shoot stunning star photos, you need a camera with good ISO performance, a sturdy tripod, and a fast lens with an aperture of at least f/2.8. Use manual mode and focus, and shoot in RAW format.

Camera settings vary depending on the type of star photography. You take a series of 30-second exposures over an hour for star trails and stack them in post-processing. When photographing the Milky Way, use the 500 Rule to find the longest exposure before the stars blur.

Find a location with dark skies away from city light pollution. Look for interesting foreground elements like buildings, rock formations, or trees. Star photography is a challenging but rewarding genre that can lead to breathtaking images.

Solar Photography

Solar photography is a fascinating way to capture the Sun’s beauty and power.

You need a solar filter to protect the camera and your eyes from the intense light to get started. White light solar filters are an affordable option. They let you photograph sunspots, solar eclipses, and planetary transits.

When taking pictures of the Sun, use manual focus and the lowest ISO setting on your camera. A tripod and intervalometer are helpful accessories for capturing sharp, detailed images. You can also use a teleconverter or Barlow lens to get closer to the Sun’s surface.

Safety is crucial in solar photography. Never look directly at the Sun through a camera, binoculars, or telescope without a proper solar filter. Inspect your filter for damage before each use.

With the right equipment and precautions, you can safely explore the wonders of our nearest star. To learn more about solar photography, check out our in-depth guide.

Astrophotography Cameras

You need a good camera if you want detailed images of objects from our galaxy. Although spending thousands of dollars on the most powerful camera is an option, you don’t need to. You only need a decent DSLR or mirrorless camera with good low-light performance.

Size and weight are two more important aspects when looking for an astrophotography camera. A camera that’s too heavy can be a problem, as it’s best to use a sturdy tripod and maybe a tracking mount.

It’s best to choose between an APS-C and a full-frame camera. The next section discusses which sensor size is best for astrophotography.

APS-C vs Full Frame

Consider your goals when choosing between APS-C and full-frame cameras for astrophotography.

Full-frame cameras have larger sensors, which means they perform better in low light and have a wider dynamic range. These features make them a good choice for capturing starry landscapes and star trails.

But APS-C cameras have advantages, too. Their smaller sensors give them a narrower field of view, which helps you hone in on targets like planets and deep-sky objects. Your setup is also more compact and lightweight, letting you use lighter, less expensive tracking mounts.

Ultimately, any modern camera can give good results for astrophotography. The key is to understand the strengths and limitations of different sensor sizes. Learn to work with the gear you have!

Best Cameras

When choosing a camera for astrophotography, low-light performance is key. Look for cameras with high ISO options and a wide dynamic range to capture the beauty of the night sky.

Shooting in RAW format is a must for post-processing your images. Long exposure noise reduction helps minimize hot pixels caused by leaving the shutter open for extended periods.

Consider battery life because long exposures and cold weather can quickly drain batteries. With the right camera for astrophotography, you’ll be ready to capture stunning images of the stars above.

Our Top 3 Astrophotography Cameras

Canon EOS R6

Canon EOS R6

Sony a7 III

Sony a7 III

Nikon D850

Nikon D850

Astrophotography Lenses and Filters

When choosing a lens for Milky Way-style astrophotography, you need a wide angle and a fast aperture. The best lenses have focal lengths from 14mm to 35mm. This focal range gives you a wide field of view to capture large portions of the night sky.

Look for lenses with maximum apertures of f/2.8 or faster, like f/1.8 or f/1.4. Larger apertures let in more light, which is important when shooting in the dark. Built-in image stabilization also helps you get sharper photos of the stars.

The astrophotography lens you choose depends on your camera. But you can find great options for shooting Canon, Nikon, Sony, or any other brand. With the right lens, you’ll be capturing stunning images of the Milky Way in no time.

Canon Lenses

The best Canon lenses for astrophotography capture the beauty of the night sky. Wide angles and fast apertures are key. The Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8L IS USM is our top pick for its constant f/2.8 aperture and wide focal range.

This lens delivers edge-to-edge sharpness, ensuring stars look crisp across the frame. It also handles distortion well, keeping stars looking natural. The Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L III USM is another great option for Canon DSLR users.

Other notable lenses include the Sigma 14mm f/1.8 DG HSM | A, which has an impressive f/1.8 aperture. Another lens is the EF 11-24mm f/4L USM for its ultra-wide zoom range.

No matter which lens you choose, you’ll be ready to explore the wonders of the night sky. To learn more about the best Canon lenses for astrophotography, check out our in-depth guide.

Our Top 3 Canon Lenses for Astrophotography

Canon RF 15-35mm F/2.8L IS USM

Canon RF 15-35mm F/2.8L IS USM

Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L III USM

Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L III USM

Canon EF 16-35mm F/4L IS USM

Canon EF 16-35mm F/4L IS USM

Nikon Lenses

Capturing the night sky requires the best lenses for astrophotography. Nikon offers a range of options for both mirrorless and DSLR cameras.

The Nikon Z 14-24mm f/2.8 S and Nikon AF-S 14-24mm f/2.8G ED are top picks. These wide-angle zooms have fast f/2.8 apertures to capture lots of light. They also deliver sharp images from edge to edge.

Other great choices include the Z 58mm f/0.95 S Noct for unmatched low-light performance and the Z 20mm f/1.8 S for wide-angle shots.

With the right Nikon lens, you can capture stunning images of the Milky Way and beyond. Nikon lenses for astrophotography let you explore the wonders of the night sky.

Our Top 2 Nikon Lenses for Astrophotography

Nikon NIKKOR Z 14-24mm F/2.8 S

Nikon NIKKOR Z 14-24mm F/2.8 S

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 14-24mm F/2.8G ED

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 14-24mm F/2.8G ED

Sony Lenses

Astrophotography enthusiasts know the importance of having the right lens to capture the vast beauty of the night sky. The best Sony lenses for astrophotography offer everything you need to capture stunning images of the galaxy around us.

Our top choice, the Sony FE 16-35mm f/2.8 GM, earns its spot thanks to its versatility and sharpness. It lets in a lot of light to capture faint details in the night sky. Its zoom range of 16-35mm offers flexibility in framing, from wide star fields to more focused sections of the sky.

The Sigma 14mm f/1.8 DG HSM | A is another great choice for astrophotography. Its fixed 14mm focal length offers a broad view, perfect for taking in vast star fields or the Milky Way.

The Sony FE 20mm f/1.8 G is another superb astrophotography lens. Its fast f/1.8 aperture and lightweight design make it easy to handle during long photoshoots at night.

To learn more about the Sony lenses for astrophotography that will help you capture breathtaking images of the night sky.

Our Top 3 Sony Lenses for Astrophotography

Sony FE 16-35mm F/2.8 GM SEL1635GM

Sony FE 16-35mm F/2.8 GM SEL1635GM

Sigma 14mm F/1.8 DG HSM | A for Sony E

Sigma 14mm F/1.8 DG HSM | A for Sony E

Sony FE 20mm F/1.8 G SEL20F18G

Sony FE 20mm F/1.8 G SEL20F18G

Astrophotography Filters

Astrophotography filters are important for capturing stunning images of the night sky.

Light pollution filters reduce artificial light in cities, giving you a clear view of the stars. Narrowband filters only let a small selection of light waves pass through. They focus on emission lines from nebulae gases like hydrogen and oxygen.

Line filters are sensitive to just one emission line, blocking all other light. Solar filters make photographing the Sun possible by limiting its power and light. Diffusion and UV filters remove atmospheric noise, making stars more prominent in night sky photos.

Graduated ND filters help balance the exposure between the sky and earthbound features like mountains. Astrophotography filters are essential for capturing the beauty of the universe in sharp detail.

Our Top 3 Choices for Astrophotography Filters

SVBONY CLS EOS-C Clip-on Filter for Canon DSLR CCD

SVBONY CLS EOS-C Clip-on Filter for Canon DSLR CCD

Optolong Dual Narrowband Filter for Canon EOS-C

Optolong Dual Narrowband Filter for Canon EOS-C

SVBONY Telescopic Filter H-Alpha 7nm

SVBONY Telescopic Filter H-Alpha 7nm

Light Pollution Filters

Light pollution filters are important tools for night sky photographers. They block artificial light from street lamps and buildings, allowing stars and galaxies to shine through.

The best light pollution filters use high-quality glass with special coatings. These coatings improve image quality by reducing flare and vignetting. They also protect the glass from scratches, oil, and water.

Light pollution filters come in different shapes and sizes. Circular filters screw directly onto your lens, while square filters require a holder. Clip-in filters are also available for some camera brands.

To learn more about light pollution filters, check out our detailed guide. It covers the best options for different types of night photography.

Our Top 3 Light Pollution Filters for Astrophotography

K&F Concept Clear Natural Light Filter

K&F Concept Clear Natural Light Filter

K&F Concept X-PRO Square Natural Light Filter

K&F Concept X-PRO Square Natural Light Filter

NEEWER Natural Light Filter

NEEWER Natural Light Filter

Telescopes and Star Trackers

Telescopes and star trackers are other important tools for stargazing and astrophotography.

Telescopes give the best close-up view of the stars, planets, and other deep-sky objects. Some telescopes can even be used as camera lenses when paired with the appropriate adapter.

Star trackers are essential for high-level astrophotography. They are attachments for your tripod and camera that track the movement of the stars in the sky. A star tracker lets you use long exposure times without creating star trails.

Let’s look at both pieces of equipment in more detail.

Star Trackers

A star tracker is essential for capturing bright, clear, and sharp night sky photos. It helps your camera move with the stars, making astrophotography easier. The best star trackers have precision tracking, easy setup, and good build quality.

Our top pick is the Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i Astro Pack. It has a motorized platform with a built-in polar finderscope for easy alignment. The all-metal gears provide top-notch quality and accuracy. It also has pre-programmed settings for tracking the stars, Sun, and Moon.

Star trackers can be a big investment, but they’re worth it if you love shooting the night sky. We have a detailed guide with trackers for different skill levels and budgets to learn more about the best star trackers.

Our Top 3 Choices for Astrophotography Star Trackers

Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i Astro Pack

Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i Astro Pack

Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer Mini

Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer Mini

iOptron SkyTracker Pro

iOptron SkyTracker Pro

SkyWatcher Star Adventurer

The SkyWatcher Star Adventurer is a compact and affordable equatorial tracking mount. It’s perfect for lightweight astrophotography and time-lapses.

This mount is easy to use and set up. Its max payload weight is 5kg with a counterweight. The Star Adventurer offers different tracking speeds for stars, the Moon, and the Sun.

The Star Adventurer is a great choice for beginners and astrophotographers on the move. It’s lightweight, flexible, and reasonably priced. Our in-depth review of the SkyWatcher Star Adventurer is available if you want to learn more about it.

Telescopes

The Celestron AstroMaster 130EQ is a great telescope for astrophotography. Its 130mm aperture and fully coated glass optics provide clear night sky views. The sturdy German equatorial mount keeps the telescope stable for sharp images.

This telescope has two eyepieces and a finderscope, making it easy to locate and focus on celestial objects. It offers great value for its price and is suitable for both amateur and professional astrophotographers.

The AstroMaster 130EQ is a reliable, high-quality telescope. It can capture stunning images of stars, planets, and galaxies. For more options, see our full article on the best telescopes for astrophotography.

Our Top 3 Choices for an Astrophotography Telescope

Celestron AstroMaster 130EQ Newtonian Telescope

Celestron AstroMaster 130EQ Newtonian Telescope

Celestron NexStar 8SE

Celestron NexStar 8SE

Orion 130ST

Orion 130ST

Budget Telescopes

The best budget telescopes let you explore the cosmos without breaking the bank. You can get stunning views of stars, planets, and the Moon. Some telescopes even let you capture amazing astrophotography with your smartphone.

We’ve included affordable telescopes for amateur astronomers of all ages. Our top pick is the Celestron AstroMaster 130EQ Newtonian Telescope. It’s portable, easy to set up, and gives you great magnification and image quality.

We have an in-depth guide with even more options if you want to research more budget telescopes. From beginner telescopes to ones for tech-savvy users, find the perfect telescope to start your astronomy journey.

Our Top 3 Choices for Budget Astrophotography Telescopes

Celestron AstroMaster 130EQ Newtonian Telescope

Celestron AstroMaster 130EQ Newtonian Telescope

HEXEUM Portable Astronomical Refracting Telescope

HEXEUM Portable Astronomical Refracting Telescope

ToyerBee 300mm Portable Refractor Telescope

ToyerBee 300mm Portable Refractor Telescope

Telescope Mounts

Telescope mounts are an important part of any astrophotography setup. They hold the telescope in place and keep it stable while you view objects in the night sky. Many different types of telescope mounts are available. Each one has its advantages and disadvantages.

Equatorial mounts are built for astrophotography. They let you track the sky by moving the payload around two axes. One coincides with Earth’s rotational axis, and the other tracks the target’s declination.

The most important thing to look for in a mount is the maximum payload it can support. As a rule of thumb, you should not load your mount over 60% of its declared maximum payload to ensure it performs at its best.

We have a comprehensive guide available if you want to learn more about telescope mounts.

Astrophotography Apps and Software

Smartphones have become excellent tools for astrophotography. You can’t use them to capture deep-sky images, but some apps help you find constellations and specific celestial objects. They also help you read the night sky, giving you a better understanding of the cosmos around us.

Photo editing software is also essential for Milky Way and astrophotography. Programs like Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop can add clarity or brighten stars. You can also use them to create composites made from several exposures.

Let’s dive into specifics about the best apps and software for astrophotography.

iPhone Apps

Astrophotography apps make night sky photography easier. They help you understand and navigate the stars, Moon, and Milky Way.

The best astrophotography apps have augmented reality features. This function lets you see where celestial objects will be in the sky. Many also include light pollution maps to find dark skies.

Other useful features are weather forecasts and the ability to plan night sky photoshoots. Some apps will even let you virtually stand in a location to see the view. With the right astrophotography app, you’ll never miss an opportunity to photograph the night sky.

To review the best astrophotography apps, we have a detailed article covering all the top options.

Adobe Software

Astrophotography software helps you process night sky photos to bring out their best. Lightroom and Photoshop are popular choices for editing astro images. They have a rich ecosystem of third-party add-ons and extensions to speed up your workflow.

Lightroom presets are like recipes that let you adjust an image with one click. Photoshop actions automate complex editing tasks. Plug-ins and panels add extra features to Photoshop.

While you don’t need dedicated astrophotography software, these tools can take your editing to the next level. If you want to learn more about astrophotography software, see our full article.

Adobe Software to Edit Astrophotography

Adobe Photoshop

Adobe Photoshop

Adobe Lightroom

Adobe Lightroom

Adobe Creative Cloud Photography Plan

Adobe Creative Cloud Photography Plan

StarStax

StarStax is a free, user-friendly software for creating star trail photos. It’s available for Mac, Windows, and Linux. StarStax simplifies combining multiple exposures to create stunning star trail images.

The software has a clean interface for ease of use. It has options for loading images, dark calibration files, and adjusting settings.

To create seamless star trails, you can easily select a blending mode, like Lighten or Gap Filling. The Gap Filling mode helps eliminate gaps between consecutive exposures. The result is smooth, continuous trails.

StarStax processes your images in real time, letting you see the star trails before your eyes. You can experiment with different settings and save your final image as a JPEG or TIFF file. Then, you can edit it further using other software like Lightroom or Photoshop.

Read our StarStax review to learn more about creating stunning star trail photos easily. It’s a great tool to explore.

DeepSkyStacker

DeepSkyStacker (DSS) is a free software for pre-processing deep sky astrophotography images. It has a simple interface with seven main sections for registering, stacking, and processing your photos.

To use DSS, load your light frames and any calibration frames, such as darks, flats, or bias files. Then, check all the images you want to stack. DSS will align and combine them into a single image with more detail and less noise.

You can process the stacked image in DSS by adjusting the luminance curve, aligning the RGB channels, and adding saturation. You can save the result as a 16-bit TIFF file for further editing in other software like Photoshop.

Learn more about using this software with our in-depth DeepSkyStaker tutorial. It covers the workflow step-by-step. Although it’s old software, some astro shooters might still find it useful.

AstroBin

AstroBin is a great resource for astrophotographers. It’s more than just an image hosting site. You can use it to showcase your astrophotography at full resolution and get feedback from the community.

AstroBin has a huge database of astrophotography gear. You can search for images with specific cameras, lenses, telescopes, or other equipment. This search tool is very useful when you want to see how certain gear performs before buying it.

The site also has an active forum to discuss techniques, processing, and gear with other astrophotographers. Learn more about AstroBin in our full article. It’s a great place to connect with the astrophotography community and improve your skills.

Editing Astrophotography

Astrophotography post-processing can be challenging. But you can create stunning night sky images with the right techniques. One important step is image stacking, which combines multiple exposures to reduce noise and bring out more detail in your photos.

To begin with, align and stack your images using dedicated software like Starry Landscape Stacker or Sequator. These programs make the process straightforward.

Once your images are stacked, import them into your preferred editing program. You can use Lightroom or Photoshop for final adjustments like white balance, contrast, and sharpening.

With practice and patience, you can master the art of astrophotography post-processing. The final results are breathtaking images of the stars, planets, and deep-sky objects!

Photoshop Tips

Adobe Photoshop is one of the best photo editing programs for astrophotographers. Its huge toolset is perfect for enhancing night sky images and bringing the galaxy to life. Here are a few top tips to get you started.

Use the Eyedropper tool to fix the background by sampling an empty patch of sky. Add artificial noise to the sampled color and paste it as a new layer, blending with the Lighten mode.

The Gradient Xterminator plug-in is a must-have Photoshop plug-in. It removes luminosity gradients caused by light pollution or moonlight. To use it, select the area to preserve and run the plug-in.

Set a natural white balance using an adjustment layer while keeping an eye on the color channel histogram. Move the sliders until a bit of blue and red are visible on the left and right of the main peak.

Reduce chromatic aberration in Camera Raw by first duplicating the layer. Then, apply a mild Gaussian blur and blend with the Color mode. Use opacity and masks to keep the best color details.

Make your images pop by again, duplicating the layer. Then, use the Scratch and Dust filter to remove small stars. Smooth with Gaussian Blur, push the black point in Levels, and blend with Screen mode.

Learn more about editing astrophotography with Photoshop with our full article. Some more tips and techniques can take your editing skills to the next level.

Video Course

Milky Way Mastery

Unlock the secrets of night sky photography with this video course:

• Learn to plan shots with optimal light, weather, and moon conditions.
• Discover the precise settings for stunning shots with any gear.
• Master simple editing techniques to enhance your night sky images.

All you need are a few skills, some knowledge, and a couple of pieces of camera equipment. You can then create stunning night sky images that impress even seasoned astronomers!

While not the most accessible photographic field, anyone can try night sky photography. We’re here to help you get started, and our article has everything you need to know about the genre. So keep reading to learn more about the art of Milky Way photography.

Video Course

Milky Way Mastery

Unlock the secrets of night sky photography with this video course:

• Learn to plan shots with optimal light, weather, and Moon conditions.
• Discover the precise settings for stunning shots with any gear.
• Master simple editing techniques to enhance your night sky images.

What Is Milky Way Photography?

Milky Way photography is the art of taking pictures of the stars above. It’s also known as night sky photography because you’re taking pictures of the night sky. They are synonymous because whenever you take a picture of the stars in the night sky, you take a picture of the Milky Way.

When photographing the Milky Way, you capture large areas of the night sky, including many stars. This is in contrast to astrophotography. The latter captures detailed shots of astronomical features, like planets or nebulae.

You can focus on smaller patches of the night sky, looking at constellations and other features. Or you can take sweeping images that capture large swathes of the starry sky above. You can even incorporate elements of nighttime landscape photography into your Milky Way images.

Our article covers how to shoot Milky Way photography, from camera settings to the specialist gear you need. We even discuss Moon photography. It might not technically be Milky Way photography, but it’s a big feature in the night sky. Use these jump links for what you need:

1. How to photograph the Milky Way
2. Recommended photography gear
3. Recommended apps and software
4. How to edit Milky Way photos
5. Milky Way photographers

How to Photograph the Milky Way

This section covers the technical side of photographing the Milky Way. We help you find the more interesting sections of the galaxy and provide the best camera settings and composition techniques.

Unfortunately, you can’t just turn your camera towards the stars and take a picture. Even the best camera on the market won’t produce good results. But capturing truly impressive night sky images isn’t overly difficult either.

All you need are the knowledge and skills we provide in this article section. Remember to click on the links to see the full article on each topic within the sections.

Where Is the Milky Way?

Finding the Milky Way in the night sky is easier than you might think. The best conditions are a clear sky with no clouds, minimal light pollution, and a moonless night.

The best time to see the Milky Way is from March to September in the Northern Hemisphere and March to October in the Southern Hemisphere. It is most prominent in late spring and early autumn in the Northern Hemisphere and winter in the Southern Hemisphere.

This time is when the Galactic Center, the most intense and dramatic part of the Milky Way, is almost vertical to the horizon. The stars look the brightest and most intense during this time.

Track the Moon phases using apps like Deluxe Moon or Sol to find the best times to see the Milky Way. For the clearest view, go out during a new Moon when the moonlight does not wash out the stars.

If you’d like to learn more about where the Milky Way is, there are many great resources available online.

Camera Settings

To capture stunning Milky Way photos, use your lens’s widest aperture. Something like f/2.8 or wider is ideal if you have it available. It allows the most light in for a shorter exposure time.

The shutter speed should be as long as possible without blurring the stars. You can calculate this using the 500 rule (see below).

Set your ISO high enough for a good exposure but not so high that it produces too much noise. ISO 6400 or lower works well on most modern cameras. Focus your lens to infinity, and use manual focus to avoid your camera trying to refocus in the dark.

Our detailed guide covers everything you need about Milky Way photography settings.

500 Rule

The 500 rule is a simple way to avoid star trails in astrophotography. It lets you calculate the longest exposure time before stars start to blur. Divide 500 by your lens focal length multiplied by your camera’s crop factor.

For example, with a 50mm lens on a micro four-thirds camera (2x crop factor), the longest exposure is five seconds (500 ÷ 50 x 2). A full-frame camera would allow 10 seconds (500 ÷ 50 x 1).

Shooting in RAW and stacking multiple exposures with a low ISO can improve your night sky images. To learn more about the 500 rule for astrophotography, check out this in-depth guide. It covers the math behind the rule and how to combine it with other techniques.

Night Photography Settings

Practicing photography at night is a great way to get to know your camera. Experiment with different ISO settings. It helps you determine when you start to see noticeable digital grain. This knowledge is beneficial when you start shooting night sky photography.

Use a high ISO between 400 and 3,200 to capture enough light in the dark. Open your aperture to f/2 or f/2.8 to let in plenty of light. Use a shutter speed of at least 1/60 s (seconds) to avoid motion blur.

For night portraits, use a portrait lens with a focal length of 80-135mm. Set your ISO to 400-1600 and aperture to f/2 or f/2.8. Use a tripod for slower shutter speeds to keep your camera stable.

When photographing stars, use a wide-angle lens and the highest ISO before image noise becomes too much. It’s usually 1,000 to 3,200.

Open your aperture from f/2 to f/4 and use a shutter speed of 4 to 10 seconds for static stars or 20 to 30 minutes. These are the best night photography settings to capture star trails.

Star Trail Photography

Star trail photography captures the movement of stars across the night sky using long exposures. Earth’s rotation causes stars to appear to move in circles around the North celestial pole, indicated by Polaris, the North Star. Stars move in straight lines when looking East or West.

To photograph star trails, use a wide-angle lens and sturdy tripod. Focus manually on a bright star using live view magnification. Use an aperture of f/4 or f/5.6, ISO 800, and shoot in RAW. For reasonably long star trails, photograph for at least 30 minutes to one hour.

Image stacking combines multiple shorter exposures to reduce noise compared to a single long exposure. To combine the images, use a remote shutter with an intervalometer and star trail photography software like StarStax.

Include interesting foreground elements like trees, rocks, or buildings to create compelling compositions. For more details, read our full star-trail photography article.

Time-Lapse

Capturing a stunning Milky Way time-lapse requires the correct location, settings, and techniques. To capture the brightest stars, find a dark location away from light pollution. Use apps like Light Pollution Map or Dark Site Finder to help you find the best spot.

Make sure the weather is good to avoid inconsistent shots. Bad weather can make your photoshoot uncomfortable and force you to change your settings or move your equipment. These conditions can result in shaky and unevenly exposed pictures.

Set your camera to manual mode and use a medium-high ISO to make the night sky look stunning. Your shutter speed depends on your creative preferences—slow for star trails or fast for sharp stars.

Use an internal or external intervalometer to set the interval between shots. For Milky Way time lapses, this is typically 15 to 35 seconds. Read our full article to learn more about capturing Milky Way time-lapse photography.

Moon Photography

Photographing the Moon is a great way to get started with night sky photography. You don’t need as much equipment as you would for capturing stars or the Milky Way. A DSLR or mirrorless camera with a telephoto lens of at least 300mm is perfect for Moon photography.

Use a sturdy tripod to avoid camera shake and get sharp images. Set your camera to manual mode, with an ISO of 100, aperture between f/11 and f/16, and a shutter speed of 1/125 s or faster. Focus manually for the best results.

Composition is key to creating impactful Moon shots. Use the rule of thirds and place the Moon at one of the intersecting points on your camera’s grid. Stacking multiple images can help improve detail and clarity in your final photo.

Photographing the Moon is a fun and rewarding way to explore the night sky.

Lunar Eclipse

A lunar eclipse occurs when the Earth moves between the Moon and the Sun, blocking sunlight from reaching the Moon.

During a total lunar eclipse, the Moon may take on a reddish color, known as a “blood Moon.” This color happens because the Earth completely blocks direct sunlight. Only faint, scattered light illuminates the Moon.

To photograph a lunar eclipse, you’ll need a tripod, remote shutter, and a telephoto or zoom lens of about 300-400mm. Set your camera to shoot in RAW, use an ISO of 400 to 800, and an aperture of f/5.6 or narrower. Focus manually on the Moon’s surface using live view.

As the Moon’s brightness changes throughout the eclipse, you must adjust your shutter speed. You can capture the eclipse with an interesting landscape in the foreground or isolate the Moon’s details with a longer focal length.

Camera settings for lunar eclipse photography can be tricky. But with proper planning and technique, you can create stunning images of this rare celestial event.

Solar Eclipse

A solar eclipse is a rare event that occurs when the Moon passes between the Earth and the Sun, blocking the Sun’s light. To photograph a solar eclipse, you need a camera with a long focal length lens, a tripod, and a solar filter to protect your camera’s sensor.

It’s important to scout your location in advance and set up well before the eclipse begins. During the eclipse, you want to capture the different phases. This includes the partial phases, Baily’s Beads, the Diamond Ring effect, and the solar corona during totality.

Adjust your camera settings throughout the eclipse. Use a fast shutter speed during the partial phases and a slower one during totality. Remember to remove your solar filter during totality to capture the corona’s detail.

Solar eclipses happen quickly, so it’s crucial to practice with your gear beforehand and have your camera set up and ready to go. Most importantly, don’t forget to take a moment to enjoy this incredible celestial event.

Check out our full guide to learn how to take photos of a solar eclipse.

Northern Lights

Capturing the northern lights requires the right knowledge and gear. A sturdy tripod is essential to keep your camera steady during long exposures. Look for a camera with good low-light performance and the ability to change lenses.

Wide, fast lenses are ideal for aurora photography. Manual focus is necessary since autofocus won’t work well in the dark. A remote shutter release helps minimize camera shake.

Dress warmly in layers, including a thick coat, pants, mittens, and a hat. Don’t skimp on footwear—pack boots or mukluks are best for extreme cold. Being comfortable will help you shoot longer and get better images. For more tips on northern lights photography, check out our in-depth guide.

Night Landscapes

Night landscape photography can be challenging, but with the right knowledge, you’ll quickly get the hang of it. The most important things are to find a dark location away from city lights and to use a sturdy tripod. Use a wide, fast lens with manual focus and the option to attach filters.

Set your camera to manual mode and use the 500 rule to find the longest exposure time before the stars start to trail. Then, adjust your ISO to get good exposure. Don’t be afraid of high ISO settings like 3200 or above.

Compose your shot with an interesting foreground and use light from the Moon or light painting to make it visible. You can also shoot multiple exposures and blend them later in editing software. With practice, you’ll take stunning night landscape photos in no time!

Milky Way Photography Gear

To capture stunning Milky Way photos, you need the right gear. A full-frame camera is ideal for astrophotography, but even entry-level cameras can work well. Look for a camera with good high-ISO performance to minimize noise in low-light conditions.

The lens is the most important piece of equipment for Milky Way photography. An ultra-wide angle lens, such as a 14mm, allows longer exposures without star trails. A wide aperture, like f/2.8, is crucial for capturing as much light as possible.

A sturdy tripod is essential to keep your camera steady during long exposures. Adjustable legs and a ball head provide flexibility for positioning your camera.

Other helpful accessories include a headlamp with a red filter and an intervalometer for time-lapses. A camera remote to minimize camera shake is also a good idea.

Milky Way photography gear doesn’t have to be expensive. But investing in quality equipment can greatly improve results.

Cameras

When choosing a camera for astrophotography, low-light performance is key. Look for cameras with high ISO options and a wide dynamic range to capture the night sky in glorious detail.

Shooting in RAW format is a must for post-processing your images. Long exposure noise reduction helps minimize hot pixels caused by leaving the shutter open for extended periods.

Consider battery life, as long exposures and cold weather can quickly drain batteries. Research astro filters to find the best one that works with your camera and lenses. With the right camera for Milky Way photography, you’ll be ready to capture stunning images of the stars above.

Our Topo 3 Cameras for Milky Way Photography

Canon EOS R6

Canon EOS R6

Sony a7 III

Sony a7 III

Nikon D850

Nikon D850

Milky Way Photography Lenses

When shooting the Milky Way, you need a wide-angle lens with a fast aperture. The best lenses have focal lengths between 14mm and 35mm. This range gives you a wide field of view to capture a big part of the night sky.

Look for lenses with a maximum aperture of f/2.8 or faster. The wider the aperture, the more light the lens lets in. This setting is essential for low-light photography.

Image stabilization is also beneficial. It helps you get sharper images when using slow shutter speeds. If you want to learn more about the best Milky Way photography lens, we have a detailed guide to help you find the perfect lens for capturing the stars.

Canon Lenses

The best Canon lenses for the night sky capture its beauty with wide angles and fast apertures.

Our top pick is the Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8L IS USM, perfect for Canon mirrorless cameras. Its constant f/2.8 aperture lets in lots of light, and the wide focal length is ideal for expansive shots of the Milky Way.

The EF 16-35mm f/2.8L III USM is great for Canon DSLRs. It’s sharp across the frame and has minimal distortion. The Sigma 14mm f/1.8 DG HSM | A is another excellent option, with an ultra-wide angle and an impressive f/1.8 aperture for low-light shooting.

Other notable lenses include the EF 16-35mm f/4L IS USM, the EF 11-24mm f/4L USM, and the Samyang XP 14mm f/2.4. The EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM is a versatile zoom with a fast aperture for APS-C cameras.

To learn more about Canon lenses for night sky photography, we have an in-depth guide that covers each lens in detail.

Our Top 3 Canon Lenses for Milky Way Photography

Canon RF 15-35mm F/2.8L IS USM

Canon RF 15-35mm F/2.8L IS USM

Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L III USM

Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L III USM

Canon EF 16-35mm F/4L IS USM

Canon EF 16-35mm F/4L IS USM

Nikon Lenses

Capturing the Milky Way requires the best lenses for astrophotography. Nikon offers a range of options for both mirrorless and DSLR cameras. The Z 14-24mm f/2.8 S and AF-S 14-24mm f/2.8G ED are top choices, providing wide angles and fast apertures for low-light shooting.

Other great options include the Z 58mm f/0.95 S Noct for unmatched low-light performance and the Z 20mm f/1.8 S for a lightweight, wide-angle prime. The AF-S Fisheye 8-15mm f/3.5-4.5E ED adds a creative twist with its unique perspective.

No matter your camera type, Nikon has a lens to help you capture stunning night sky images. Nikon lenses for night sky photography offer exceptional sharpness. They also have wide apertures and versatile focal lengths to suit any celestial scene.

Our Top 2 Nikon Lenses for Milky Way Photography

Nikon NIKKOR Z 14-24mm F/2.8 S

Nikon NIKKOR Z 14-24mm F/2.8 S

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 14-24mm F/2.8G ED

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 14-24mm F/2.8G ED

Sony Lenses

Milky Way photography enthusiasts know the importance of having the right lens to capture the vast beauty of the night sky. The best Sony lenses for night sky photography offer everything you need to capture stunning images of the galaxy around us.

Our top choice, the FE 16-35mm f/2.8 GM, earns its spot thanks to its versatility and sharpness. This lens lets in a lot of light—key for capturing faint details in the night sky. The zoom range from 16mm to 35mm offers flexibility in framing, from wide star fields to more focused sections of the sky.

The Sigma 14mm f/1.8 DG HSM | A is another great choice for night sky photography. Its wide f/1.8 aperture and fixed 14mm focal length offer a broad view. It’s a perfect lens for capturing vast star fields or the Milky Way.

The FE 20mm f/1.8 G is a superb wide-angle prime lens. Its fast f/1.8 aperture and lightweight design make it easy to handle during long shooting sessions.

Learn more about the best Sony lenses for Milky Way photography. They will help you capture breathtaking images of the night sky.

Our Top 3 Sony Lenses for Milky Way Photography

Sony FE 16-35mm F/2.8 GM SEL1635GM

Sony FE 16-35mm F/2.8 GM SEL1635GM

Sigma 14mm F/1.8 DG HSM | A for Sony E

Sigma 14mm F/1.8 DG HSM | A for Sony E

Sony FE 20mm F/1.8 G SEL20F18G

Sony FE 20mm F/1.8 G SEL20F18G

Moon Photography Lenses

Capturing stunning lunar images requires the right lens. This type of photography has a different set of demands compared to shooting the Milky Way. A long focal length is essential for illuminating the Moon’s intricate details.

The Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM is a top choice for Moon photography. Its impressive zoom range and superior sharpness make it ideal for capturing the lunar landscape. The lens also features effective image stabilization and weather-sealing for reliable performance.

Other great options include the Canon RF 100-400mm f/5.6-8 IS USM for mirrorless cameras and the Nikon AF-S 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6G ED VR for Nikon DSLRs. These lenses offer similar benefits. They have long focal lengths, sharp optics, and helpful features like vibration reduction.

Check out our in-depth guide to learn more about the best lenses for Moon photography.

Canon Lenses

Capturing the Moon’s intricate details requires a lens with impressive reach and clarity. The Canon RF 600mm f/11 IS STM is a top choice for Moon photography, offering a long focal length and sharp images in a lightweight, collapsible design.

Other excellent options include the EF 600mm f/4L IS III USM. It’s known for its exceptional low-light performance and robust construction. The EF 500mm f/4L IS II USM delivers outstanding clarity and advanced stabilization for handheld shooting.

The versatile EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM zoom lens is also a good choice when paired with a teleconverter. The EF 400mm f/4 DO IS II USM stands out for its compact design and impressive sharpness.

To learn more about the best Canon lenses for Moon photography, check the options in our full list. It lists lenses with a range of focal lengths and features to suit different needs and budgets.

Our Top 3 Canon Lenses for Moon Photography

Canon RF 600mm F/11 IS STM

Canon RF 600mm F/11 IS STM

Canon EF 600mm F/4L IS III USM

Canon EF 600mm F/4L IS III USM

Canon EF 500mm F/4L IS II USM

Canon EF 500mm F/4L IS II USM

Nikon Lenses

Capturing the Moon’s details requires a lens that can handle the task. Nikon lenses are among the best options for Moon photography.

The Nikon Z 400mm f/4.5 VR S and Nikon AF-S 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6G ED VR stand out for their clarity and magnification. They help you shoot the Moon from your backyard.

These lenses reduce chromatic aberration and glare. This ensures the Moon’s surface is well-defined in your photos. They also offer quick autofocus and effective image stabilization for sharp, stable shots.

We have a detailed guide that covers the best Nikon lenses for moon photography. It also covers additional options for mirrorless and DSLR cameras.

Our Top 2 Nikon Lenses for Moon Photography

Nikon NIKKOR Z 400mm F/4.5 VR S

Nikon NIKKOR Z 400mm F/4.5 VR S

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 80-400mm F/4.5-5.6G ED VR

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 80-400mm F/4.5-5.6G ED VR

Sony Lenses

Having the right lens is essential when photographing the Moon. Sony offers several excellent options for capturing detailed lunar images.

The Sony FE 400mm f/2.8 GM OSS is a top choice, providing exceptional sharpness and clarity even when shooting wide open at f/2.8. Its lightweight design makes it easy to use handheld. And its weather-sealed construction ensures reliable performance in challenging outdoor conditions.

Other notable lenses include the FE 600mm f/4 GM OSS. It offers superior reach for wildlife and sports photography. And the versatile Tamron 150-500mm f/5-6.7 has a broad zoom range and effective vibration compensation for sharp handheld shots.

Ultimately, the best lens for your Moon photography depends on your specific needs and preferences. Explore our in-depth article to learn more about the Sony lenses for Moon photography mentioned here and other options.

Our Top 3 Sony Lenses for Moon Photography

Sony FE 400mm F/2.8 GM OSS SEL400F28GM

Sony FE 400mm F/2.8 GM OSS SEL400F28GM

Sony FE 600mm F/4 GM OSS SEL600F40GM

Sony FE 600mm F/4 GM OSS SEL600F40GM

Tamron 150-500mm F/5-6.7 Di III VC VXD A057 for Sony E

Tamron 150-500mm F/5-6.7 Di III VC VXD A057 for Sony E

Light Pollution Filters

Light pollution filters are an essential camera accessory when shooting Milky Way photography. Having one is especially important if you live in an urban area. 

Have you ever looked up at the stars from a city and seen nothing but an empty black sky? That’s because “pollution” from city lights overpowers the light from distant stars.

The obscured view means we can’t see the stars in the sky. It’s a big problem if you want to shoot night sky photography from a built-up area.

Light pollution filters, also known as broadband light filters, help resolve this problem. They block out light transmitted from artificial sources like street lamps. So, only natural light, like that from stars, passes through your lens and into the camera.

They are worth using even if you have a remote location from which to shoot. Using a filter gives you cleaner, sharper shots of the stars in the sky. Find out more and see all the best light pollution filters in our full article.

The Best Light Pollution Filters for Milky Way Photography

K&F Concept Clear Natural Light Filter

K&F Concept Clear Natural Light Filter

K&F Concept X-PRO Square Natural Light Filter

K&F Concept X-PRO Square Natural Light Filter

NEEWER Natural Light Filter

NEEWER Natural Light Filter

Apps and Software

Milky Way photography doesn’t stop when you’ve turned off your camera after a shoot. Using photo editing software, you can enhance your night sky images, bringing out more detail and energizing colors.

You can also use software to stitch together multiple exposures for super-powered Milky Way images.

This section reviews the best smartphone apps for capturing night sky shots with your iPhone or Android. We also cover specialist night sky photography software to help you get the best possible images.

Smartphone Apps

Having the right apps for Milky Way photography can make capturing stunning images of the galaxy much easier. These apps help you find the best weather, location, stars, and timing for breathtaking shots.

Some top apps are Stellarium Mobile for locating the Milky Way and The Photographer’s Ephemeris for visualizing how it looks in any spot. The Weather Channel app provides accurate forecasts. PhotoPills is also great for planning shoots because of its AR feature and calculators.

Other helpful apps are Sol for tracking light phases, GoSkyWatch for following the Milky Way, and SkySafari for star maps. With these tools, you can capture amazing Milky Way photos. Check out our in-depth guide for more about the best Milky Way apps.

Software

Astrophotography requires specialized software to process your photos and bring out the best in them. Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop are popular choices for astrophotographers. They offer a rich ecosystem of third-party add-ons and extensions to speed up your workflow.

Lightroom presets can help balance your images and boost details and colors in the sky. Photoshop actions automate complex editing tasks. They help remove light pollution, reduce halos, and sharpen. Plugins like GradientXterminator can correct gradients in just a few clicks.

Extension panels pack even more features into Photoshop. Orionh Plus is a comprehensive panel with tools for the Milky Way, star trails, and deep sky editing. If you want to learn more about astrophotography software, read our full article.

Adobe Software for Milky Way Photography

Adobe Photoshop

Adobe Photoshop

Adobe Lightroom

Adobe Lightroom

Adobe Creative Cloud Photography Plan

Adobe Creative Cloud Photography Plan

StarStax

StarStax is a free, user-friendly software for creating star trail photos. It simplifies the process of combining multiple exposures into a single image. StarStax supports JPG, PNG, and TIFF formats, so you must convert your RAW files first.

Once your images are loaded, you can easily select the ones you want to use. StarStax offers various blending modes. But for star trails, you want to use either Lighten or Gap Filling. These modes compare the images and choose the brightest pixel at each location, creating the trails.

If you notice small gaps in your star trails, the Gap Filling mode can help. Adjust the Threshold and Amount sliders to smooth out the trails without affecting the darker areas of the image.

When you’re happy with the result, save your final image as a JPEG or TIFF for further editing in other software. Our full StarStax review is a great resource for creating stunning star trails.

Editing Milky Way Images

Editing Milky Way photos is different from editing regular landscape photos. You’ll make adjustments to sliders that you wouldn’t normally use. But the principles of editing remain the same.

Start with a graduated filter for color correction. Then, adjust the white balance and tint sliders to make the sky bluer. Increase the highlights and whites to make the stars brighter. Use the shadows slider to darken the image while keeping the stars bright.

Increase clarity and sharpening to reveal more detail in the stars and galaxies. Reduce noise to improve picture quality. Adjust the color saturation sliders to remove orange or yellow glows and enhance blues and purples.

You can also use lens correction to remove barrel distortion and make the photo look more natural. Finally, the dehaze tool is great for removing haze and making the sky darker.

If you’d like to learn more about editing Milky Way photos, we have a detailed guide that covers everything you need to know.

Photoshop Tips

Photoshop is one of the best editing programs for enhancing Milky Way photography. It’s a big software suite with many functions, so it can be daunting if you’re a beginner. But our tips help you achieve the best night sky results with Photoshop.

The eyedropper tool fixes noisy or uneven backgrounds by sampling an empty sky area. Add a new layer filled with this color and some artificial noise, then blend it with the original image using the lighten mode.

The Gradient Xterminator plugin is a must to remove luminosity gradients caused by light pollution or moonlight. Select the area to preserve and let the plugin even out the rest.

Achieve more natural colors by using a white balance adjustment layer. Adjust the sliders while monitoring the color channel histogram, leaving a bit of blue and red visible on the edges of the main peak.

Reduce chromatic aberration in Camera Raw by first duplicating the layer. Then, apply a mild Gaussian blur and blend it using color mode.

For a final pop, duplicate the image and remove small stars with the Dust & Scratches filter. Then, blur it, push the black point in Levels, and blend it back using the screen mode.

Learn astrophotography Photoshop techniques like these to take your images to the next level!

Inspirational Night Photographers

Night photography captures the world’s magic after dark, from serene moonlit landscapes to neon-lit city streets. These 30 influential photographers showcase the beauty and mystery of the night.

Paul Zizka and Rachel Jones Ross create stunning astrophotography. Liam Wong and Emmanuel Coveney transport us to cinematic, dream-like cityscapes. Tobias Baumgaertner reveals the night world of wildlife. And Anat Seem invites us into an innocent realm inhabited by fairies and magic.

These photographers use the night as a backdrop for their unique visions. They remind us of the transformative power of darkness and its endless possibilities.

Explore these night photographers’ captivating portfolios. And be inspired to capture your own night magic!

Video Course

Milky Way Mastery

Unlock the secrets of night sky photography with this video course:

• Learn to plan shots with optimal light, weather, and Moon conditions.
• Discover the precise settings for stunning shots with any gear.
• Master simple editing techniques to enhance your night sky images.

We recommend downloading the following apps. We use iOS devices but found the same or similar apps for Android and Windows phones.

Mesmerizing Photos

Milky Way Mastery

Capture stunning images of the galaxy without fancy gear or prior expertise. Easily master camera settings, panorama techniques, focusing strategies, and more. Discover the secrets to exceptional astrophotography!

What Are the Best Apps for Astrophotography of the Milky Way?

The top apps for capturing the Milky Way provide a variety of features to support astrophotographers. They help in planning and capturing stunning images.

10 Best Software Tools for Capturing the Milky Way in Astrophotography

Here are our top apps to locate the Way of the Milky and elevate your astrophotography skills. Choose the apps that best suit your needs and preferences based on features, ease of use, and compatibility with your device.

1. Deluxe Moon Pro

Download: iOS or Android
Deluxe Moon Pro is our favorite moon application. It gives you a visual representation of how much light the moon will reflect in the night sky. Once more, our goal is to capture photography of the Milky Way during the new or full moon. So we must know exactly when this is.

It also shares information about when the moon will be visible in the sky. This way, you can time your shoot exactly at moonrise or moonset if you want to. This is a free app with in-app purchases for more advanced features.

2. Stellarium Mobile

Download: iOS or Android

The Stellarium Mobile app provides a captivating virtual planetarium experience. It enables real-time navigation through the sky at night. And it’s the top app for locating the Milky Way for photographers. 

It’s particularly useful for photography of the Milky Way. It helps astrophotographers easily locate this celestial marvel. And beyond simple identification, the app enables detailed planning. It simulates the sky’s appearance at designated times and locations.

This feature assists in previewing the alignment of the Way Milky with additional components in the view. This optimizes composition and ensures the best possible shots.

Stellarium Mobile is an essential app with a user-friendly interface and powerful planning tools. It’s ideal for photographers aiming to snap breathtaking pictures of the Way Milky. The app is free with in-app purchases.

3. The Photographer’s Ephemeris (TPE)

Download: iOS or Android.

The Photographer’s Ephemeris (TPE) app is a powerful tool for photography of the Milky Way. It lets you visualize how the Milky Way will appear in any location.

It has a sun and moon location calculator. So, photographers can assess how natural light will interact with their chosen shooting spot at night. For instance, for a Milky Way shoot in Iceland, you can determine the optimal time and location based on moonrise and other celestial events.

TPE also provides essential data such as sunrise and sunset times. This aids in comprehensive planning for photoshoots of the Milky Way.

While the app costs $9.99 with optional in-app upgrades, its features make it a worthwhile investment. For online planning convenience, you can also explore TPE for free via their website.

4. Forecast: The Weather Channel

Download: iOS or Android

For astrophotographers, having accurate weather predictions is crucial for planning photography sessions. There are countless different weather apps available. So why choose the Weather Channel app? In our experience, it provides the most reliable and up-to-date weather forecasts.

Clear skies are essential for capturing celestial objects. It shows the percentage of cloud cover you can expect at night and hourly weather radar. And it also indicates when the next new or full moon occurs, aiding in scheduling the optimal moment for capturing images of the Way Milky.

The app is free with in-app purchases.

5. PhotoPills

Download: iOS or Android

Astrophotographers value the PhotoPills app for photography of the Milky Way. This is due to its specialized planning tools.

You can visualize the position and location of our galaxy to optimize composition. Its augmented reality feature overlays celestial objects onto live camera views. This helps with compositional adjustments.

The app provides accurate timing information for visibility of the Way Milky, including its rise and set times. This helps photographers capture it at its best. Also, it provides lunar phase and light pollution information for optimal shoot scheduling.

PhotoPills has advanced calculators for camera settings, like exposure time and ISO. This streamlines the shooting process and ensures well-exposed images of the Milky Way.

It’s a bit lower on our list because of its $10.99 price and higher learning curve. But PhotoPills is indispensable for planning and executing stunning Milky Way photography. You can read our full review of PhotoPills for more information about this app.

6. Sol: Sun Clock

Download: iOS

This pretty-looking app tells you the exact phases of light you pass through daily based on location. It shows everything from daylight and golden hour to full darkness and astronomical dusk.

It also tells you the exact time of sunrise and sunset. From our experience, it’s 100% accurate and essential for planning photography of the Milky Way. It only costs $3.99 and is worth it. An Android alternative called Sunclock performs the same tasks and rates well.

7. GoSkyWatch Planetarium

Download: iOS

The GoSkyWatch Planetarium app is perfect for photography of the Milky Way. It has an intuitive interface and precise features. You can effortlessly find and follow the Way of the Milky, supported by the app’s sleek design and features.

With accurate time and location settings, astrophotographers can plan sessions effectively. You can predict Milky Way visibility and alignment. The app also offers augmented reality. This overlays celestial bodies onto live camera views for easier composition.

This app makes capturing the galaxy’s creamy band easier by offering crucial planning tools and visual aids. This makes it a valuable asset for photographers in pursuit of stunning images of the sky at night. It’s only available for iOS and only costs $3.99.

8. SkySafari

Download: iOS or Android

The SkySafari application offers comprehensive star maps to help identify celestial bodies in the sky at night, including the Way Milky. The large database lets you precisely locate its position relative to other stars and constellations.

It also has time and location settings, letting you accurately plan Milky Way photoshoots. You can predict the visibility and alignment of the Way Milky by inputting specific dates and locations. This ensures optimal shooting conditions.

This app is a valuable tool for novice and experienced astrophotographers. It helps with the planning and execution of breathtaking Milky Way images. The Basic SkySarafi app costs $4.99. There are also more expensive and advanced Plus and Pro versions.

9. SkyView

Download: iOS or Android
SkyView is the app we use for identifying stars in the sky, such as Polaris (The North Star). You can quickly identify and locate stars, planets, constellations, etc. By simply pointing your camera to the sky, the app shows and tells you what you’re looking at with an overlay.

It’s handy to know what you’re taking photos of instead of finding the stars through your naked eye. It also makes you feel more connected to the sky at night above.

There is a free SkyView Lite version for iOS and Android. But we recommend getting the paid app for a nominal fee ($2.99 for iOS and $1.99 for Android) because it functions better.

10. Sun Surveyor (Sun & Moon)

Download: iOS or Android

The Sun Surveyor app is a fantastic tool for capturing Milky Way photos. It’s excellent for helping photographers plan their nighttime photography. It eliminates the uncertainty of predicting the rise and set times of the sun, moon, and the Way Milky.

It has helpful features like a live camera view and an interactive map with a street view. This shows you where celestial objects will be in the sky, with a rotating view. It also tells you the exact time of sunrise and sunset and predicts golden hour and blue hour.

This app for photographing the galaxy makes it easier for photographers to capture breathtaking images of the sky at night. You can try the free Sun Surveyor (Lite) version for iOS or Android first. We recommend the paid version ($9.99 and 10.99 respectively) for professionals.

Conclusion: The Top Apps for Capturing the Galactic Core

The best Milky Way apps offer a range of features to assist you in planning and capturing stunning Milky Way images. You can choose the app that best suits your needs and preferences based on features, ease of use, and device compatibility.

Photography of the Milky Way can be challenging to perfect. But you don’t need expensive gear to capture the celestial beauty of our galaxy. These software tools for capturing the Milky Way will help bring the most out of your shots of the sky at night!

Check out our Milky Way Mastery course to take out-of-this-world photos!

Mesmerizing Photos

Milky Way Mastery

Capture stunning images of the galaxy without fancy gear or prior expertise. Easily master camera settings, panorama techniques, focusing strategies, and more. Discover the secrets to exceptional astrophotography!

Stability And Portability

Rollei Compact Traveler Tripod

Capture stunning lunar eclipse photos with ease using a lightweight and stable travel tripod that can handle up to 17.64 lbs of camera gear, and folds to a compact 12.99″.

Camera Settings For Lunar Eclipse: What Is a Lunar Eclipse?

A lunar eclipse happens when the Earth moves between the Moon and the Sun.

It should not be mistaken with a solar eclipse when the Moon positions itself between the Earth and the Sun.

Why Does the Blood Moon Occur During an Eclipse?

Sometimes, a totally eclipsed Moon has a reddish color. The reddish tint of the Moon is the result of sunlight getting scattered in the atmosphere. This faint scattered light is what illuminates the Moon during totality.

It happens because the Earth is completely blocking the direct sunlight from reaching the Moon. Because of its reddish color, this lunar phenomenon is called a blood Moon.

When Is the Lunar Eclipse Visible?

Two to five lunar eclipses happen every year. But not all of them are total lunar eclipses. Time and Date is an excellent website to check the date of the next eclipse. You can see when it will happen and from which part of the world you can see it.

Depending on where you are and the Moonrise/set time, you may not be able to witness the full eclipse. From your location, the Earth may not shadow the Moon completely. That way, you will witness only a partial lunar eclipse.

The number of solar and lunar eclipses is pretty much the same in a year. Because the Earth is much bigger than the Moon, lunar eclipses are visible from more places on Earth than solar eclipses.

The Earth’s shadow is rather large, so eclipses of the Moon can take a few hours to unfold.

This gives you plenty of time to both observe and work on your photography. You can test and adapt the camera settings to the ever-changing Moon brightness.

Lunar Eclipse Timeline

A lunar eclipse unfolds in steps, as illustrated in the scheme below.

During the eclipse, the Moon will approach the Earth’s shadow. This is a Penumbral Eclipse. In time, the Moon will gradually enter the Umbra. This is the darkest part of Earth’s shadow (Partial or Umbral Eclipse).

When the Moon is inside the Umbra, you get the full eclipse. Because Earth’s shadow is larger than the Moon’s, this phase can last one hour. The Moon will continue to darken while getting red. It will gradually reach the maximum of the Eclipse.

After the maximum, the Moon will get brighter. The reddish color will vanish. This is the end of the full eclipse.

Next, the partial and penumbral eclipses will end and the Moon will be in full sunlight once again.

How to Photograph a Lunar Eclipse: The Gear

Binoculars

This is not a piece of specific photography equipment. But it’s good to observe the eclipse before taking the winning shot. A simple 8×40 binocular will allow you an immersive, 3D-like experience.

Tripod and Tracking Heads

A tripod is a must-have. It will allow you to set up your DSLR camera for amazing images.

You might have to compete for your photography spot. Particularly if you want to photograph the eclipse and the landscape using a wide-angle lens. Plan to be at your location well in advance.

The Moon moves quickly in the field of view of a long telephoto lens or telescope. If you want to follow the Moon during the eclipse, consider a 3-way pan head rather than a ball head. That way you can re-center the Moon in the frame with ease.

Better still, you can use a tracking head such as the SkyWatcher Star Adventurer.

Remote Shutter

A remote shutter/intervalometer will allow you to create a time-lapse of the event. It will also prevent camera shake.

Lens Heater

Lunar eclipses are long-lasting. If you are following one during the winter, fog and ice can form on your lens. This will soften your images and add haze.

A USB-powered lens heater wrapped around your lens will solve this problem. You can also strap a hand heater pad to the lens.

Whatever you use, take a test shot to ensure your focus is still good. If not, refocus.

What Lens Should You Use?

Wide-angle lenses are great for the lunar eclipse especially if the outcome is a stacked photo of the moon. You can capture it as it unfolds over an interesting landscape.

Even if you are interested in isolating the Moon, you still don’t need extreme focal lengths.

A telephoto lens or zoom lens of about 300-400 mm is a good starting point. The biggest features of the Moon surface will start showing with a decent amount of detail.

If you are on a budget and don’t have a long focal lens, you may want to consider using an old, manual lens from the film era. They are rather cheap and still have good optics.

I took many of my lunar and solar images with an old Olympus Zuiko OM 200 f/4 with its 2X teleconverter. I used it on my micro four-thirds Olympus OMD camera.

What Camera Should You Use?

Any camera will do, as long as you can use a long focal length lens. Low light and high ISO performance are not much of an issue here.

Cameras with crop sensors have an advantage. They fill the frame better at any given focal length than full frame cameras.

This is because they will show a narrow field of view.

If you have only one setup, you have to decide whether you want to capture the unfolding of the eclipse on a landscape, using a wide-angle lens. Or if you want to zoom on the Moon, in a classic astrophotography style.

If you have two cameras, you can use two setups to capture both the Moon and the unfolding of the eclipse.

Camera Settings for Lunar Eclipse Photography

First of all, set your camera to shoot in RAW. Next, consider using an ISO value of about 400 or 800.

The Moon will get quite dark and you don’t want to risk motion blur with long exposures. Especially if you are not tracking its movement while using a telephoto lens.

If you are on a tripod, remember to disable any image stabilization. As for aperture, I rarely go wider than f/5.6.

White balance should be set to sunlight. By shooting in RAW you will be able to adjust it during the editing.

How to Focus on the Moon

When it comes to photographing celestial bodies, I prefer to use manual focus. Use the live view, magnify the lunar surface and try to get a contrasting region as sharp as you can. It is even better if your camera has focus peaking as a feature.

When I have to focus on the full Moon, I zoom in on the Plato region.

Plato is iconic and easy to find crater at the edge of Mare Imbrium. Below it, there are the Montes Teneriffe.

How to Set Your Exposure for Eclipse Photography

If you are following the entire eclipse, the amount of shadow cast on the Moon will vary. So will the Moon’s brightness. This means that you will have to adjust your shutter speed from time to time.

Here is a handy formula to calculate the shutter speed in seconds, ss, for a given aperture, f, ISO value, I, and Moon brightness, b:

ss = f^2 / ( I * 2^b ).

Moon brightness for the different phases of a Lunar eclipse appear in the scheme below.

Say you are using ISO 400 and f/8. To expose the full Moon (b=8), keep your shutter speed at 1/1600s. With the same ISO and aperture settings, your shutter speed will drop to about 20 seconds during totality (b=-7).

These settings are indicative and not foolproof. The actual brightness of the Moon is affected by visibility conditions, i.e. haze, humidity and other atmospheric factors.

The Moon moves faster than the average star. If you are not tracking it with a tracking mount, you may need to use a more conservative version of the 500 rule (say, 300).

This will help you guesstimate the slowest shutter speed (ss) you can use without blurring the Moon with your setup.

In short, the rule reads like this:

ss = 300 / (CP * FL)

SS is the shutter speed in seconds, CP the sensor crop factor and FL the focal length.

If you are using a 12 mm lens on a micro four-thirds camera, for example, the slowest shutter speed you can use will be ss = 300 / (2*12) = 12.5 seconds.

With this in mind, you can use the formula with the Moon brightness ( ss= f^2 / ( I * 2^b ) ) to set the aperture and ISO value.

This is so that you will be able to shoot faster than 12.5s during totality, i.e. when the Moon is darkest.

Capturing the Eclipse and the Landscape

If you have only a moderate telephoto reach, it may be best to go for landscape composition. You have to get an interesting foreground to keep your image fresh and interesting.

The Moon is bright throughout the eclipse, except for the totality moment. Because of this, you can get away even with photographing from the city. Try capturing the path of the Moon during the eclipse over an iconic cityscape.

Interesting lone trees, mountain peaks, and rock formations make exciting foreground too.

In this case, since you want to show the path of the Moon across the sky, you don’t have to track the Moon. Its small size in the frame will allow you to stretch your shutter speed without introducing motion blur.

When you go for this kind of time-lapse, an intervalometer is a must. If your camera does not come with a built-in intervalometer, get an external one.

Also, bring a fully charged battery and an empty memory card. Take a frame every minute or so. This way you will have more images to choose from when creating your composite image.

How to Capture Moon Details

To isolate the Moon, you need a long focal length. This isn’t much of a problem when photographing the full Moon from a fixed tripod. But you may risk blurring the Moon during totality.

Using my setup with the old telephoto lens and 2X teleconverter (800 mm equivalent on a full frame camera), the 300 rule above will give me a slower shutter speed of less than half a second.

For this reason, it’s better to track the Moon or choose a shorter focal length.

In terms of editing your photos, check out this article for all you need to know about editing astrophotography shots.

How to Get Creative With Eclipse Photography

Let’s have a look at all the interesting things you can show in your lunar eclipse photography.

The Classic Composite Image

Let’s begin with the classic: create a composite image.

Choose your best images where the Moon is as sharp and detailed as it can get. Then, make a collage.

If you photographed a landscape, align the foreground for all your images. Reveal the Moon from each frame to create a path in the sky.

If you have isolated the Moon, try to keep your composite symmetric, both in shape and in Moon appearance.

In the composite below, I arranged my moons in an “S” shape. The darkest Moon (slightly magnified) is in the middle, to show the evolution of the full eclipse only.

The sequence begins with the top right Moon.

The Moon During the Partial Eclipse Phase

Before totality, the presence of the penumbra ensures a gentle gradient in Moon brightness.

This is a feature you don’t find during classic Moon phases. The transition between light and dark is much harsher.

Take advantage of the partial eclipse to create a more compelling, interesting and moody image of the Moon.

The Stars and the Moon

Often, you don’t get to see stars right next to the full Moon. But during a lunar eclipse, you can photograph both the full Moon and the stars. This is because the Moon gets so much darker than usual.

Depending on your gear and settings, you may need to edit the images twice. Once for the Moon and once for the stars. And then merge the two copies into a final image.

You can learn more about capturing the starry night sky with Milky Way Mastery! 

The Moon Before/After Totality: The Turquoise Effect

Near totality, when a bit of the Moon is still at the edge of the Umbra, the so-called Turquoise Effect takes place.

In this phase, you may notice a faint blue or purple area near the brightest region of the Moon.

Using auto white balance or doing it manually using a grey area of the Moon, should make the blue color pop.

This is not a fake effect. The bluish color is due to sunlight shining through the stratosphere and through the ozone layer.

Stars and Planets

Getting close to totality, you will see stars around the Moon. It is worth checking if any notable star (or planet) is near the lunar disc.

In the image above showing the Turquoise Effect, you see a star near the left edge of the Moon. That is a faint star.

Meteor Impacts

During the last lunar eclipse, a meteorite hit the darkest side of the Moon during totality.

Many people taking videos or very short exposures were able to capture it.

Conclusion

There are many elements to consider when shooting a lunar eclipse. You only have a few opportunities in a lifetime to capture a total Lunar eclipse, so it’s essential to be prepared. Make sure you have all the gear, and brush up on our tips before you go!

If you are eager to try the tips in these articles, check the eclipse page of the Time&Date website.

Stability And Portability

Rollei Compact Traveler Tripod

Capture stunning lunar eclipse photos with ease using a lightweight and stable travel tripod that can handle up to 17.64 lbs of camera gear, and folds to a compact 12.99″.

Precision Time-Lapse

Remote Control with Intervalometer

Capture stunning underwater pictures with ease using a multi-function remote control with intervalometer. Get perfect exposure with the 500 rule and experiment with camera settings to improve your astrophotography results.

Explaining the 500 Rule for Astrophotography

The idea behind the 500 rule is to provide you with an easy-to-remember formula to freeze the movement of the stars. This way, you will get images without any star trails.

Of course, if your goal is to make star trails, you should ignore this rule. Otherwise, you need to use it so that you can capture clear pictures of the Milky Way and the starry sky in general.

But why are you getting trailing stars in the first place? That’s because the Earth is rotating on itself once every day. This rotation creates the rather fast 15º/hour apparent motion of stars.

The gif below shows how stars move around the North celestial pole, roughly indicated by Polaris, the North Star.

In astrophotography, we make a big deal out of freezing the stars. To be rigorous, the length (in mm) of a star trail on your image will depend on the field of view, sensor size, image resolution, exposure time and the star angular speed and declination.

While this is not rocket science, the formula that links all those variables together is not the simplest one to remember and use in the field.

If you are an occasional star shooter, knowing how to use the much simpler 500 rule will let you capture trail-free starry skies.

The rule reads like this: SS = 500 / (FL * CF)

SS is the shutter speed in seconds. FL is the focal length expressed in mm and CF is your sensor’s crop factor, i.e., the ratio between the size of a full frame sensor and yours.

Here you can find the crop factor for different types of cameras:

• 1 for full frame cameras;
• 1.6 (1.5) for Canon (Nikon) APS-C cameras;
• 2 for micro four-thirds cameras;
• 2.7 or higher for compact cameras with a 1″-type sensor or smaller.

As far as I know, while it can be related to image resolution and field of view at a specified focal length, the number “500” doesn’t have an actual meaning. It is an arbitrary constant chosen so that the guideline will work in most cases.

Example of the 500 Rule in Action

Let’s consider my Olympus OM-D EM-5 Mk II micro four-thirds camera. It has a crop factor equal to 2. Now let’s see how this rule works.

With a 50mm lens, for example, the guideline will tell me the exposure time for which the stars will not trail.

See the calculation below:

SS= 500/(50*2)= 5 seconds.

With a full frame camera with the same lens, the result will be:

SS=500/(50*1)= 10 seconds.

The image below shows how many stars are trailing when I use a shutter speed of 3 minutes with my 50mm lens on my Olympus. This exposure time is much longer than the rule suggests.

With this guideline, you can even get decent results when photographing bright deep sky objects such as M42 (The Great Orion Nebula) using a telephoto lens.

While the level of details will not be impressive, it will be a very satisfying experience. I would recommend you give it a try.

The 400-, 600- and NPF Rules

There are two common variants of the 500 rule; the 400- and 600-Rule.

In the 400-Rule, the number 500 in the formula above is replaced by 400. This results in an even shorter exposure time. With the 600-rule, the number 600 is used instead, resulting in slightly slower shutter speeds, i.e., longer exposure times.

If you want better results, you should switch to other rules, such as the NPF rule. These are more accurate and rigorous than the 500 rule.

You can find many star trail calculators online, as well as smartphone apps such as PhotoPills. You can also calculate the values online.

For Android, there is also PinPoint Starts available. These can help you choose the best exposure time for your camera-lens combination.

Image Stacking and 500 Rule Combined

The first thing to do to improve your night star pictures is to shoot in RAW instead of JPEG. This will ensure you have the maximum flexibility when you need to edit your images.

If you are not tracking the sky movement with a tracking head, the stars will always move across the sensor. The light you can collect for each pixel depends only on how long the star will stay over the same pixel.

You may be tempted to bump up your ISO. But this will only increase image noise, with no extra benefits.

Allowing stars to trail a bit more by using longer exposures will not help either. The time a star will excite the same pixel will not change. You will only record a trail.

The solution is called image stacking. So how do you do that?

You take many photos at a quite low ISO. You expose each according to the 500 rule. Then you can combine (stack) them later on in Adobe Photoshop. This technique will improve the number of details in the final image a lot.

The process involves masking and aligning the sky among all the exposures. But software like Deep Sky Stacker, Sequator (windows, free) and Starry Landscape Stacker (Mac OS X, commercial) will make the whole procedure faster.

Below you can see the comparison between a single raw from my Sony RX100 Mk II pocketable compact camera (1″ sensor type) …

… and the final image, obtained by staking 8 different exposures. You can see how stacking has boosted details and enriched the sky.

You can read more about image stacking in this article about editing techniques for astrophotography.

The Science Behind the 500 Rule

The idea behind the 500 rule is to provide an easy way to guesstimate the longest exposure time for which the stars’ movement is not noticeable.

The sky rotates 360 degrees in 24 hours or 0.0042 arc degrees per second. A full frame camera with a 24mm lens will have a horizontal view of about a 73.7 degree.

Let’s assume we have a 24 Mpx sensor (6000px X 4000px). Those 73.7 degrees are projected onto 6000 horizontal pixels, giving 81.4 pixels per degree.

Assuming a 24mm lens, the “rule of 500” gives you an exposure time of about 21 seconds (500/24).

In 21 seconds the sky will move about 0.09 degrees (0.0042*21).

For our 24 Mpx full frame camera with a 24mm lens, 0.1 degrees translates to 7.3 pixels (81.4*0.1).

Those 7.3 pixels represent the maximum acceptable movement blur before point-like stars will turn into trailing stars. But is this movement really acceptable?

We are used to looking at our images on a computer screen. If you blow up your full resolution image to 100%, you will see that the star is not a dot.

But what about prints?

It turns out that if you print your image in 30x45cm format, those 7 pixels will make up a trail on your print only 0.5mm long!

Experimenting With Camera Settings

You might already understand that the shutter speed is only dependent on your camera’s crop sensor and the lens’ focal length.

But what about the other camera settings, you might ask. How should I set my ISO and my aperture? Not all combinations of ISO and aperture will result in successful Milky Way photos.

As I said before, cranking up your ISO may result in digital noise. But you still need to have a high ISO to get enough light.

Your aperture should be wide open. So try to work with the lowest possible F-stop. Remember, your shutter speed is fixed. You can only play around with the two other elements to get enough light.

Conclusion

If you find yourself struggling to capture that starry night sky photography, using the 500 rule will improve your results a lot. If you combine it with image stacking, the difference will be dramatic.

This rule is something you should remember when you find yourself under the Milky Way Galaxy shining through the night.

For more low light photography tips, check out our twilight portrait or night street photography posts! Enthusiastic astrophotographers should check out our SkyWatcher Star Adventurer Review.
For stunning starry shots, don’t miss out on our Milky Way Mastery course!

Precision Time-Lapse

Remote Control with Intervalometer

Capture stunning underwater pictures with ease using a multi-function remote control with intervalometer. Get perfect exposure with the 500 rule and experiment with camera settings to improve your astrophotography results.

So how do you photograph night scenes? In this article, we’ll teach you the ideal night photography settings for street photography, portraiture, and astrophotography. So let’s get started!

Stability And Versatility

Neewer 77 Tripod with Panoramic Ball Head

Capture stunning night photography settings with ease using a durable and adjustable tripod with a panoramic ball head. Perfect for stability and creating stunning panoramas.

Night Photography Settings for Shooting Street Photography

When shooting street photography at night, you’ll need to use available light sources smartly. If you want to learn more about the ins and outs of nighttime street photography, check out this article.

Essential Equipment

It’s always best to keep your equipment minimal for night street photography. In most situations, a camera and a lens are all you need. Having too many things to carry will just slow you down when you’re chasing people to photograph.

For night photography, stick to fast prime lenses since they let in more light than kit lenses. They also do a great job transforming the background into colorful bokeh.

Since you can’t zoom in with prime lenses, choose two lenses that would let you shoot in different situations. For me, these are 24mm and 85mm. But if you only have enough money for a single lens, a 50mm f/1.8 lens is the best option.

So how do you set up your camera for night photography? Below, we’ll show you the range of settings you’ll need for the perfect street shots at night.

Camera Settings

ISO

Ideally, you’d want to stick to ISO 100 to minimize image noise. But using this value in night photography is impossible because it’s not sensitive enough in the dark. So use a high ISO between 400-3200 depending on how much light is available. Those values I mentioned should be high enough to let you shoot in the dark. But at the same time low enough that that they don’t produce unusable grainy pictures.

Aperture

Set your aperture close to its widest setting to let in plenty of light. I advise you to stick between f/2 and f/2.8. Of course, you can also choose f/1.4 or f/1.8 if it’s so dark. On the other hand, never go above f/2.8 or you wouldn’t have enough light for night photography at all.

Shutter Speed

For night photography, feel free to use Aperture Priority and let your camera choose the best shutter speed for you. Just remember never go below 1/60th, or you’ll end up with motion blur.

So what happens if your camera selects a shutter speed slower than 1/60th? Then consider changing your aperture or ISO until you get back up to 1/60th.

Get the Best Night Time Portraiture Shots

If you’ve done a lot of street photography at night, then taking nighttime portraits shouldn’t be too hard. The settings you’ll need to use is mostly going to be the same. The only difference is you now have more control over your subjects and how you want to photograph them.

Essential Equipment

Using the proper lenses would help you a lot when it comes to night portrait photography.

The best choices you have are portrait lenses with focal lengths that range between 80-135mm. These specialized options have minimal distortion and produce flattering pictures of people.

If you don’t have a portrait lens, don’t worry. A regular 50mm will do just fine. Since it’s not a wide-angle lens, it doesn’t create distracting distortions. Furthermore, its maximum aperture between f/1.2, and f/1.8 is perfect for night time photography.

Although not always necessary for portrait photography, it would also help if you have a tripod with you. It’s great for stabilizing your camera to prevent motion blur when using slow shutter speed.

Camera Settings

ISO

Like in street photography, you can choose a high ISO between 400-1600 depending on how much light you have. It is also important to know your camera’s low light performance and limitation. If you have a tripod, using a lower value should be fine. Because when your camera is stable, you can work with longer exposures without worrying about motion blur.

Please note that if you choose to shoot longer exposures, make sure that your model also stands still.

Aperture

For night photography, it’s best to use an aperture size between f/2 to f/2.8. The shallow depth of field these settings produce help separate your subject from the background. Not to mention that the bokeh they create makes portraits look more magical.

Shutter Speed

Use Aperture Priority and let your camera adjust the shutter speed for you. Just don’t let it go below 1/60th to prevent blurry results from camera shake. However, feel free to go slower if you have a tripod. Since your device is stable, then motion blur from your camera won’t be an issue. Just make sure your subject doesn’t move as well even though the camera is still. Otherwise, they’ll still end up fuzzy if they don’t stay put.

Photographing Stars

One of the most popular activities in night photography is taking pictures of the night sky. Also known as astrophotography, this speciality genre involves taking pictures of the moon, stars, and other heavenly bodies.

But astrophotography is also one of the most technical genres in photography. Even taking pictures of the moon requires different methods from taking pictures of the stars.

Since we could easily fill a book regarding this topic, we will focus on photographing stars for this article.

Essential Equipment

You can use just about any lens for this type of night photography. You can even start with a kit lens if you want. But most night photographers prefer wide-angle or even fisheye lenses so they can cover a large area of the sky. The most common options vary from 14mm to 35mm.

Since you’ll need to shoot the night sky for long periods, a tripod would be necessary. It will help a lot if you use a heavy-duty version instead of a plastic one. Since you’ll be shooting outdoors, then you need your equipment to withstand the elements.

Another piece of equipment you need to add is a remote control. Since you’ll be using slow shutter speeds, even a minor movement from pressing the shutter can cause blurry pictures. So to ensure your equipment remains stable when taking pictures at night, your best option is to trigger it from remotely. In this way, you can also experiment with Bulb mode.

Camera Settings

ISO

For this type of night photography, you’ll need to use a high ISO to let you capture the stars. If possible, choose the highest one you can go before distracting image noise becomes too much. For most cameras, it would be about 1000 to 3200.

Aperture

Since the stars tend to be dim, open up your aperture between f/2 to f/4 to let in as much light as possible. To take pictures of light streaks in the night sky, use narrower aperture settings between f/8 and f/18. The value you end up choosing depends on the available light in the environment.

Shutter Speed

The settings for taking start pictures vary a lot, depending on what you want to achieve. For regular images of the night sky, then a shutter speed between 4 to 10 seconds is enough. But if you want to capture light trails, then you may need anything between 15 seconds to several minutes.

There are two ways to photograph stars at night. You can either record them as static elements or as light trails. Both methods require long exposures. But the visual effects will vary depending on the settings you use.

• Static Stars – The perfect shutter speed settings to get a static shot of the night sky is between 1 to 10 seconds. If you go beyond that, you’ll start seeing star trails which you is bad news if you want sharp stars.
• Star Trails – You’ll need to set your shutter speed to 20-30 minutes if you wish to do this in one shot. You will need to use a small aperture to achieve such a long exposure. The worst aspect of this approach is that you may end up with too much light in the foreground. Furthermore, it can also stress your sensor quite a bit since you’re exposing it for a long time.

Technical Tips for Night Photography

Use the 500 Rule for Night Photography

The 500 Rule a simple guideline on how long you should set your shutter speed for night photography. It suggests that if you divide 500 by your effective focal length, you get the longest advised speed.

So let’s say you have a 16mm lens on a full frame camera (no crop happens). All you have to do is divide 500 by 16 and get 31. That means that you can safely do exposures under 30 seconds with the lens that you have. If you have 50mm, divide it by 500 and you get 10 seconds worth of exposure.

For your camera has a crop sensor, replace 500 with 300, instead. Since you have a smaller sensor, it only makes sense that you should shave off 200 from the 500 Rule. Although, the principle still remains the same and you can apply it on any lens you use.

Set Your ISO Invariance to Reduce Noice

Nailing your exposure is paramount when it comes to night photography. So understanding ISO invariance is going to be crucial.

So what is ISO invariance, exactly?

When learning photography, we’ve all been taught to raise the ISO until we get a well-exposed image. But cameras these days are so good that the result is going to be the same no matter what ISO value you set.

In other words, setting your camera at ISO 100 is essentially the same as setting it to ISO 800. Of course, the image you see on your screen is going to be dark if you use ISO 100. But once you brighten it in post, the result is not going to be different as compared to an image shot with ISO 800.

This is what happens with my Sony A7RII. I get much less noise at ISO 3200 than if I were to shoot the image at ISO 800 and brighten it up by two stops during editing (other parameters fixed).

So why is ISO invariance essential in night photography? You can now underexpose your shots and still get beautiful results that don’t suffer from too much image noise. Apart from that, you now have the ability to adjust your exposure in post without reducing the quality.

Also keep in mind that although it’s okay to underexpose, we don’t recommend overexposing your image. Even if your camera is ISO invariant, you won’t be able to retain the details in post if your picture straight from the camera is too bright.

Just remember that not every camera is ISO invariant. Some newer models yield the same noise levels in both cases, but with more highlight detail in the ISO 800 shot. Make sure to double-check whether your camera features an ISO invariant sensor.

Which Camera is Best for Night Photography?

In most cases, any full frame camera is perfect for such use because its big sensor can gather more light. Not to mention that it also has professional features that regular cameras may not have.

But a crop sensor camera is as capable as a professional one when it comes to night photography. It can do anything you need from autofocus to doing long exposures. But since has a small sensor, it needs more time to gather light. And in some cases, they also produce more noise than their full-sensor counterparts. Thankfully, this is a small issue you can easily fix in post.

Conclusion

So now you know your night photography settings, it’s time to become a night owl and get those night time photos! Just remember that what we listed are merely guidelines and not hard rules. As you gain more experience, you’ll see that all your camera adjustments will vary a lot depending on the situation.

What’s your favourite type of night photography? Do you enjoy photographing the night sky, as this article details? Perhaps you enjoy cityscapes, or street photography more?

As always, we’d love for you to share your work with others in the comments section, together with any techniques you use for your work.

Stability And Versatility

Neewer 77 Tripod with Panoramic Ball Head

Capture stunning night photography settings with ease using a durable and adjustable tripod with a panoramic ball head. Perfect for stability and creating stunning panoramas.

Finding the Milky Way can seem daunting if you don’t know how. There are also many misconceptions about finding it in the night sky. This post aims to clear that up. Read on, and you’ll see that finding the Milky Way is much simpler than you think!

Video Course

Milky Way Mastery

Unlock the secrets of night sky photography with this video course:

• Learn to plan shots with optimal light, weather, and moon conditions.
• Discover the precise settings for stunning shots with any gear.
• Master simple editing techniques to enhance your night sky images.

Locating the Milky Way: Best Tips

When we look up at a clear night sky, the Milky Way is everywhere. It’s the galaxy that contains the Solar System. From Earth, it’s seen as a hazy form of stars that the naked eye can barely notice.

You can see the Milky Way all year, no matter where you are. It’s visible as long as the sky is clear and there’s minimal light pollution. The Milky Way also appears to move in the sky as the Earth rotates!

Have a look at the two images below. The first was shot at about 1:00 a.m., and the second was shot at about 4:30 a.m.

The location is almost the same, but you’ll notice that the Milky Way appears to have moved. (Depending on the time of year and where you are, this may or may not be apparent.)

Locating the Galactic Way After Dusk

You find the Milky Way in all its glory only when all three sky conditions below are met. As mentioned, it also depends on where you are and the time of year. But to see the Milky Way at night, you generally only need the following:

1. A clear, cloudless sky
2. No light pollution
3. A moonless night

1. Choose a Dark Evening With No Clouds

Because you need a clear sky, looking for the Milky Way during the summer is best. Check the weather and try to go out at night when the sky is clear, and there are no clouds. Aim for less than 10% cloud cover.

To help you out, Clear Sky Chart is a good resource for astronomers. It tells you when the sky will be clear and dark at specific observing sites. This includes national parks across North America.

2. Aim for Minimal Light Pollution

When looking for the Milky Way, it is important to go to a dark location far from the city. Light pollution is caused by the excessive artificial light in cities. This extra light reduces one’s ability to see stars.

Too much extra light washes out the details in the night sky. You may have to drive more than 150 miles from a big city until you reach a true dark sky. This distance is based on the Bortle Dark-Sky Scale. It measures the quality of astronomical observing conditions.

3. Plan for a Moonless Nighttime Canopy

The moon is brighter than you think and reduces the visible intensity of the Milky Way. If you are looking for the Milky Way on a night when the moon is shining bright, you won’t see it.

The sky has to be very dark to see the galaxy’s stars with your naked eye. The moon washes out the light of the stars, just like light pollution from cities does.

Understand Moon Phases for Best Shooting Times

We all know how to check the weather. And finding an area with very little light pollution is simple enough. But understanding the moon’s phases is a little more complicated. It’s important to find the best times to see the Milky Way.

For the best results, we want to photograph the Milky Way during “full darkness.” That’s when there’s no moon to wash out the stars. Full darkness is at its longest during the new moon and winter months.

The best times to see the Milky Way are during new moons when the moon is completely hidden in the sky. You can also see it a week before or after a new moon. But if the moon is in its first quarter or more, the moonlight will be too bright to see it.

In the pictures below, you can see the duration of a new moon’s full darkness during spring in Iceland. It’s 12 hours and 46 minutes. Then, compare the same duration during the full moon. You’ll see the time has been reduced by 1 hour and 36 minutes.

For maximum photography time, take photos of the Milky Way during a new moon in the winter. As we’ll show you, those stars will disappear as soon as the astronomical dawn shows its face.

I track this using the Deluxe Moon and Sol apps (free and $4.99, screenshots below). You can read more about them in our article about apps for evening photography and capturing our galaxy.

Finding the Way of Milk: Essential Queries

These are the most commonly posed inquiries regarding the location of the Milky Way. We trust our responses will assist you in getting ready for your evening photoshoot.

What’s the Optimal Hour to View the Milky Way?

Different times at night also affect how you can see the Milky Way. So, it’s good to understand the various phases of the night. As the sun sets, the sky transitions into the golden hour and then the blue hour.

The exact sunset and sunrise are when the sun is zero degrees to the horizon. After sunset comes civil, then nautical, and lastly, astronomical twilight, when the sun is 18 degrees below the horizon. After this, the sky is the darkest they will ever be for the entire evening.

This time of transition, or twilight, can be divided into three phases. These phases depend on the angle of the sun (pictured below) and are civil twilight, nautical twilight, and astronomical twilight.

The best time to see the Milky Way is when it’s darkest, after astronomical twilight at dusk and before astronomical twilight at dawn. The longest duration is during the winter months.

When the sun begins to rise at dawn, the sky again goes through the three phases of twilight. But this time, it’s in reverse order. First comes astronomical, then nautical, and finally, civil twilight before sunrise.

What’s the Best Time of Year to See the Milky Way?

The best time of year to see the Milky Way is from March to September in the Northern Hemisphere (late spring to early autumn). Specifically, May, June, and July often offer the best views.

March to October (autumn and winter) is the best time in the Southern Hemisphere. April, May, June, and July are the best months.

You get the most interesting view of the Milky Way during these times. This is because of how the Earth spins around on its axis and how the angle changes in different seasons.

You may wonder, “If the Milky Way is the entire collection of stars, how does it change throughout the year?” It changes because the Milky Way has a core called the Galactic Center.

Its rotational center is surrounded by dust, gas, and stars. It’s the most intense and dramatic part of the Milky Way. So this is what you should aim to capture. It’s most prominent in the Northern Hemisphere in the late spring and early autumn, and winter in the Southern Hemisphere.

The most interesting angle of the Milky Way is when the Galactic Center is almost vertical to the horizon. This is when the stars look the brightest and the most intense.

The first photo below was taken in early April. The Milky Way is rising horizontally across the sky. Compare that to the second photo, taken in the summer. It’s almost vertical as it appears to rotate.

A trained eye can tell you when a photo was taken based on the position of the Milky Way. In the Northern Hemisphere, it starts horizontally in March and rotates 180 degrees through the months until September.

What Does the Milky Way Look Like?

The simplest answer is to look at the sky and see how it looks. Sure, we only have one perspective of the Milky Way, but it’s the only one that matters to us!

Scientists use radio waves, infrared, and ultraviolet wavelengths to create a more accurate view of the Milky Way. (What it looks like from the “outside.”) To help get a closer view of the Miky Way, check out the best telescopes for astrophotography.

How Do I Locate Polaris?

Finding the North Star isn’t that hard. And there are a couple of ways of doing it. You can “cheat” by using an app. There are many astronomy apps, like the following:

• GoSkyWatch Planetarium for iOS ($3.99)
• Stellarium Mobile for iOS or Android
• SkyView for iOS ($2.99) or Android ($1.99)

After downloading the app, you only need to point your phone at the night sky. It will align the stars with your compass and tell you precisely what you’re looking at.

The other way, my favorite method, is to do it the old-fashioned way. You can try to find the North Star by looking for the group of stars known as the Big Dipper.

The Big Dipper stands out because it resembles a garden scoop with a long handle (at the bottom of the picture below). If you follow the far edge of the scoop upwards, it points to Polaris, also known as the North Star. It is the first point on the Little Dipper’s “handle.” 

I prefer this method because it helps you better understand the night sky and doesn’t require technology. Locating the North Star after dusk is crucial, as all other celestial bodies revolve around it.

How Do I Find the Celestial South Pole?

To find the South Celestial Pole (SCP), you must locate the point around which the stars in the southern celestial hemisphere appear to rotate. Unlike the North Celestial Pole, the SCP has no bright star nearby to serve as a visual guide. But there are a few ways you can locate it:

1. Use the Southern Cross (Crux): If you’re in the southern hemisphere, you can use the Southern Cross constellation (Crux) as a guide to find the SCP. Draw an imaginary line through the two celestial bodies at the long end of the cross. Then, extend this line about 4.5 times the distance between these two stars. This imaginary point is close to the SCP.
2. Use the Magellanic Clouds: These two small satellite galaxies of the Milky Way are visible from the southern hemisphere. Draw an imaginary line connecting the two Magellanic Clouds and extend this line outward. The SCP lies approximately halfway along this line, slightly closer to the larger Magellanic Cloud.
3. Use an Astronomy App or Start Chart: Like finding the North Star, you can use an astronomy app or a star chart to help locate the SCP. They display the positions of the stars and constellations in the sky. Then, you can identify the general direction of the SCP based on the surrounding stars.

Conclusion: Finding the Way to the Milky Galaxy

What is the location of the Milky Way this evening? Finding the Milky Way isn’t too tough if you know what you’re doing. All you need is a dark, clear sky unobstructed by clouds, light pollution, or the moon.

You can easily spot the Milky Way if you know the optimal season to venture outside and when the sky is most devoid of light. As you’ve seen, many websites and apps help you figure this out. Now that you know how to locate our galaxy, you can take some amazing Milky Way time-lapses!

Video Course

Milky Way Mastery

Unlock the secrets of night sky photography with this video course:

• Learn to plan shots with optimal light, weather, and moon conditions.
• Discover the precise settings for stunning shots with any gear.
• Master simple editing techniques to enhance your night sky images.

Configuration for Capturing the Milky Way in Photos

Unveiling this heavenly phenomenon requires the right camera settings and techniques. So, here is a list of the best Milky Way photography settings to capture the galaxy in all its glory. If needed, find out how to find the Milky Way first.

1. Correct Exposure

First, always set exposure based on the sky, not the foreground. When you start adding foreground interest, it can be tempting to compromise on exposure to suit both parts of the photo. Resist the temptation. If you want to get the best image of the Milky Way possible, use the sky to set the correct exposure.

2. Aperture Adjustments

One luxury of focusing on a single point of interest millions of miles away is that you don’t need to think about the depth of field even if you shoot at f/1.2.
The question isn’t, “Will everything be in focus?” It’s, “Will I have enough light for my exposure?” After all, we capture photos of the stars during the darkest nights of the month.
For Milky Way photography, I recommend shooting at your widest aperture settings—f/2.8, for example. This allows the most light into the lens and a shorter exposure duration.
If you’re taking a photo with some foreground interest, such as the tree in the image below, then f/2.8 is the magic spot. It’s wide enough to allow plenty of light into the lens while. And it provides enough depth of field to get the foreground in relative focus.

3. Shutter Speed Settings

The aperture you choose for Milky Way photography is the widest possible. So, the shutter speed should be the longest possible. But how long is the longest possible?
We can set almost limitless exposures on our cameras. But there’s a very specific limit to how long you can expose photos of the stars. Set too long of a time, and the stars will start to move in the sky. And those sharp dots of detail will look like soft smudges.
Fortunately, there’s a very easy way to work this out with a quick calculation involving your focal length. It’s called the 500 rule.

The 500 Rule

The 500 Rule calculates the longest exposure time possible for Milky Way photography before the movement of stars starts to show. It’s easy to use. You divide 500 by the effective focal length of your lens.
For example, 500 divided by 14mm would be 35.7. This means 35.7 seconds is your maximum advised exposure length.
For that same calculation again, this time for a 24mm lens, the result is 20 seconds.
This is because the stars’ movement is relatively faster when your perspective is tighter. The idea is the same as the one in the reciprocal rule. But this time, your camera is steady, and your subject moves. So, the wider your lens is, the more exposure time you have for the stars.

Remember that the rule calculates time with the effective or equivalent focal length. Using a crop-sensor camera, the smaller sensor adjusts the setting by cropping the scene. And this gives you a tighter field of view.
So, if you’re shooting with a Canon crop sensor, you must divide that final number by 1.6. If you’re using another model, you will divide it by 1.5.
For example, say you had a 14mm f/2.8 lens and put it on a Canon crop-sensor body, like a Canon EOS R7 or R10. You would divide 35.7 seconds by 1.6. And this gives a 22.3-second exposure time.
If you were shooting on a Nikon crop sensor, like a Z50, you would divide 35.7 seconds by 1.5. This gives you a 23.8-second exposure time.
You must only remember that you take 500 and divide it by your focal length. And if you’re on a crop sensor camera, divide that number again by its magnification factor.

500 Rule Limitation

Note that the 500 rule is not really a “rule.” It’s rather a guideline. If you have a modern, high-megapixel camera, it doesn’t really work. Higher resolution means smaller pixels, which means more detail. So, motion blur appears sooner.
Experiment with your setup, and check if noticeable motion blur shows up when calculating with the 500. rule. If there is, try it with 400 or even 300 until it disappears.
You get faster shutter speeds. So, you’ll likely need to raise your ISO a bit to compensate. This results in more noise. But if you must choose between noise and blur, go with noise. It’s easier to filter out noise when editing.

4. ISO Configuration

Unlike aperture and shutter speed, there are no rules on what you can set the ISO to. It’s important to remember that the higher the ISO, the noisier the image will be.
Using a modern full-frame camera, you will quite easily get away with setting your ISO up to 12,800. Modern crop sensors will produce fairly clean night sky images at ISO 6,400 or lower.
Any higher than that will show too much degradation in the image quality. At that point, you’re probably better off pushing it in post-production.

How Do You Focus on the Milky Way?

Focusing on the Milky Way is super simple. All you need to do is to set your focus at infinity. This is the figure-eight symbol captured in the shoot below.
You want to line up the little sideways L with the line to focus on infinity on Canon lenses. You want to align the infinity symbol with the line on other cameras. Always check to see how it works on your lens.

After you’ve set your focus to infinity, turn your focus mode to manual. This way, your camera won’t try to refocus in the dark when you go to take the photo. Otherwise, it will not do a good job!
Remember also to check your focus every time you recompose your shots. It’s very easy to knock the focus ring and send your photo’s focus into a blur.
If you’re unsure your marking is accurately placed, check it in daylight. Focus to infinity using Live View, and see if the markings line up. If you don’t have a focus scale on your lens, use manual focus with the help of Live View magnification. Be warned that it’s not an easy task in the dark!

In-Camera Long Exposure Noise Reduction

There is a useful but time-consuming function of digital cameras. It is the In-Camera Long Exposure Noise Reduction setting.
The camera sets this by first taking a regular 30-second exposure. After that’s captured, the camera will close the shutter and capture another 30-second “blank” exposure.
The camera will then compare the blank exposure to the original photo. It does this to identify the digital noise and then remove it from the original photo. And it does a pretty good job!
But as with everything to do with exposure, there is one major downside. Time. This process is very time-consuming and will drain your battery life. So it’s not a perfect solution.
And if you’re taking several photos for a panorama? It won’t be quick enough to take photos without the stars moving too much to stitch together later.

Conclusion: Our Preferred Settings for Photographing the Milky Way

So, what settings do you use to shoot the Milky Way? We use these settings for 98% of our Milky Way photos. But these are specific to our gear. Here are our best photography settings for Milky Way photography:

• Focal Length: 14mm (on a full-frame sensor)
• Aperture: f/2.8
• Shutter Speed: 30 seconds
• ISO: 3200
• Focus: Manually set to infinity
• In-Camera Long Exposure Noise Reduction: Off

It’s best to work out the settings for your camera and lens. You can use the same settings for most of your shots. Before you go, check out our video on top camera settings for Milky Way photography! And to perfect your skills, try our Milky Way Mastery course!

What Makes AstroBin One Of The Best Astrophotography Resources Out There?

AstroBin is much more than an image hosting website. It includes a multilingual photography forum, a photo backup service and it works as a huge gear database.
So, what does AstroBin look like? Despite the variety of services offered, the interface is neat and intuitive.
The website homepage is quite rich in information too.

At the top, you will find the astrophotography image of the day.
Right below it, there is a section with the most recent active topics in the forum.
The final section shows the most recent images users have uploaded on the site. Like any other image sharing service, you see the name of the user and also how many likes the photos have.
The interface is also multilingual. This can help users who are not familiar with the English language.

Let’s break down AstroBin and its different aspects.

Account Creation and Pricing

AstroBin gives astrophotographers a place to showcase their images.
To do so, you have to create an account and register. The registration process is very simple and straightforward.
When you register, you have to choose a username and complete your profile. Make sure you fill in the section about your equipment.
Here you can state the camera(s) you use, the lens(es), telescope(s), mount(s), filter(s) etc.
Let’s look at the subscription plans available for AstroBin.

AstroBin Subscription Plans

Like most image sharing services, AstroBin has different subscription plans. The plans differ in the number of images you can host and show in your gallery:

• AstroBin Free: 10 images, free;
• AstroBin Lite: 12 images, 18$/year, no monthly option;
• AstroBin Premium: unlimited images, 36$/year, no monthly option.

The quality of the user images in AstroBin is generally quite high, and uploads are moderated.

AstroBin Raw Data Subscription Plan

Alongside those subscription plans, AstroBin also offers storage plans. These service allows you to store your raw and fits files as a backup.
As you can see from the image above, the price tag is quite steep, as you will need to buy a lot of space. External hard drives might be a cheaper investment. This makes the service less attractive for beginners.
A more exciting feature is that you will contribute to a repository of FIT and digital camera raw files.

If you don’t subscribe to the service, you can still use the data from the repository to increase the integration time for your target.

The Users Gallery

Whatever your level is, you should focus on your best images only. In this case, the free subscription is good enough to start using AstroBin.

The user gallery has a classic format. On the left of the screen, you have a panel with the user’s info. The images appear as a grid of thumbnails on the right.
The advantage of using AstroBin for your images is that you can upload them at full resolution.

Uploaded images are automatically plate solved. This way, you can know what astronomic objects are visible in your images.

When you upload an image, take your time selecting the gear you have used to capture it, and the settings used. This way you will have a record for your info, and you will contribute to improving the AstroBin database.
Once your image is online, other users can like it and comment on it.
If you are curious, you can see my gallery here (still under construction).
An Explore menu is accessible from the top menu, to see the top picks from the AstroBin staff and more.

The Forum And Public Groups

The forum has several main categories where you can talk about:

• gear,
• imaging post-processing,
• imaging acquisition techniques,
• constructive feedback and critiques of your images.

While they are not very used, you can find sub-forums that are in languages other than English, like:

• German,
• Italian,
• French,
• Spanish,
• Russian.

There are other forums out there that seem to be more active. But it is nice to have all your resources in one place.
Alongside the forum, it is possible to follow and create public groups. These are groups to discuss particular topics.

AstroBin’s Database: The Most Useful Resource For Astrophotographers

In this brief review, I have discussed the main aspects of AstroBin. But, I have still to reveal you the best bit of it: its massive, searchable database.
The most trivial use of the data in AstroBin is searching for images of a particular astronomic object. Search for the Moon, and you will have close to 22,000 results.

More interestingly, though, you can search AstroBin for a particular piece of equipment. This can be a specific lens or mount, a filter, a guiding scope or guiding camera, etc.
If you want to know how a particular lens performs, AstroBin is where you should look first. Same if you are thinking to upgrade your mount or camera.

The search function is customizable, taking advantages of keywords and categories.

AstroBin Competitors

As I said, AstroBin is a rather unique resource for astrophotography. It provides many different services in a single location. But there are alternatives for the services AstroBin provides.
Are you a classic photographer with a minor interest in astrophotography? Image sharing services such as 500px and Flickr are great alternatives to AstroBin.
Are you looking for a great community to discuss and learn about astrophotography? Cloudy Nights is a forum with a good reputation, where people are helpful and friendly.
Are you more interested in tutorials? Astrobackyard is one of the best educational website out there for astrophotography.
If you are curious to see what astronomic objects are visible in your photo, you can plate solve it by uploading it to Astrometry.net.
As for backing up your data online, if you need it, you can rely on services such as Apple iCloud, Google Gdrive or Dropbox.

Conclusion

You might want to be part of a community sharing your interest. Or you might want to show your work or look for beautiful photos. In both cases, AstroBin can be a great option for you.
It’s also a great resource for astrophotographers looking for feedback or equipment info.
We have a post on best apps for astrophotography or milky way photography to check out next!